Is Marks & Spencer Fast Fashion? How Ethical & Sustainable is Marks & Spencer

Is Marks & Spencer fast fashion? Discover how M&S blends traditional retail with faster production, their ethical promises, and sustainability challenges.
Written by: 
Ash Read
Last updated: 

No, Marks & Spencer (M&S) is not a true fast fashion brand. It operates on a more traditional seasonal retail model but has adopted some faster production elements to stay competitive. While M&S has made significant public commitments to ethical sourcing, its efforts fall short of ensuring consistent living wages for all workers.

The brand's sustainability initiatives are commendable and include ambitious climate goals, but progress is inconsistent, and its large scale of production still contributes a major environmental footprint. Here's what you need to know about M&S's practices.

What Makes Marks & Spencer Different From Fast Fashion?

Unlike classic fast fashion retailers that drop new collections weekly, M&S follows a more measured, traditional approach focused on seasonal lines and quality. However, it does share some characteristics with faster models to meet consumer demand.

  • Seasonal Collections vs. Weekly Drops: M&S releases major collections four times a year in line with traditional seasons (Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter). While some product lines are refreshed every 2-3 months, this is far slower than the weekly or even daily new arrivals common at brands like Zara or SHEIN.
  • Mid-Range Pricing: With T-shirts around $10-20 and dresses at $30-60, M&S positions itself in the mid-range market. This pricing reflects a greater focus on quality and durability compared to the rock-bottom prices that define throwaway fast fashion.
  • Trend Adaptation Over Replication: M&S incorporates current trends into its collections, but its core identity revolves around classic, lasting styles. It adapts popular looks to fit its brand aesthetic rather than directly and rapidly copying runway designs.
  • Focus on Quality and Longevity: M&S built its reputation on quality materials and construction. While some have noted a decline in recent years, the overall intent is still for garments to last multiple seasons, contrasting with the fast fashion model of clothes designed to be worn a handful of times.

Is Marks & Spencer Ethical?

M&S has a long-standing public commitment to ethical trade and transparency, placing it above many mainstream retailers, but key gaps persist, particularly around ensuring workers earn a true living wage.

Labor Practices

Marks & Spencer publishes a list of its suppliers and conducts third-party audits based on standards from the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI). However, there's a significant gap between what its supply chain workers are paid and what constitutes a living wage. Reports show workers in countries like Bangladesh often earn around $180-$250 per month, while a living wage is estimated to be closer to $350-$400.

Supply Chain Transparency

The company publishes an annual Modern Slavery Statement and detailed sustainability reports. It participates in initiatives like the Fair Wear Foundation and uses certifications like Fair Trade for some product lines. Despite this transparency, M&S does not have full traceability for its entire supply chain, meaning it cannot guarantee every factory meets its highest standards without issue.

Animal Welfare

M&S has a strong animal welfare policy. It uses wool certified by the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), down from the Responsible Down Standard (RDS), and does not use fur or exotic skins. Its own-brand beauty and cosmetic products are also PETA-approved as cruelty-free.

Where Marks & Spencer Falls Short Ethically

  • The Living Wage Gap: The most significant shortcoming is the failure to close the gap between the legal minimum wage and a true living wage for the workers who make its clothes.
  • Incomplete Traceability: While M&S is more transparent than most, a lack of full visibility into every tier of its supply chain means that auditing and verifying conditions in all factories remains a challenge.
  • Slow Progress: Despite numerous commitments and programs aimed at worker empowerment, progress on increasing wages to living wage levels has been slow and incremental across its vast global supply chain.

Is Marks & Spencer Sustainable?

M&S has set ambitious sustainability targets and is B Corp Certified, but its large operational scale means it still has a considerable environmental footprint and faces challenges in meeting its goals.

Materials & Sourcing

M&S aims for 100% of its cotton to be from sustainable sources (like the Better Cotton Initiative or organic) by 2025, with current levels around 50-60%. It also uses recycled polyester and FSC-certified viscose. However, a significant portion of its collections still relies on conventional cotton and virgin fossil fuel-based synthetics.

Environmental Impact

The company has made progress in reducing the environmental impact of its manufacturing processes, achieving a 15% reduction in water use per garment over five years and using systems like Bluesign for better chemical management. However, comprehensive data on Scope 3 emissions, which cover its entire supply chain and represent the bulk of its footprint, is still limited.

Circularity & Waste

The "Shwopping" campaign, in partnership with Oxfam, encourages customers to donate old clothes for reuse and recycling. Despite this popular initiative, the brand still struggles with the industry-wide problem of unsold inventory, and much of it may still end in landfills or incineration, counteracting its circularity goals.

Sustainability Goals & Progress

M&S has a goal to be a net-zero business by 2040 and is a B Corp Certified company, which requires a high standard of accountability. While its Scope 1 and 2 emissions have seen reductions, reports indicate the company is behind schedule for meeting its 2030 Science-Based Targets for overall emission reductions.

Where Marks & Spencer Falls Short on Sustainability

  • Reliance on Conventional Materials: Despite growth in sustainable materials, the brand still heavily relies on virgin synthetics and non-BCI cotton across its product lines.
  • Opaque Supply Chain Emissions: M&S does not provide full, transparent reporting on its Scope 3 emissions, making it difficult to assess the true carbon footprint of its products.
  • Behind on Climate Goals: The company's own reporting suggests it is not on track to meet crucial 2030 emissions reduction targets, raising questions about the pace of its climate action.
  • Unsold Goods & Overproduction: The scale of production means significant waste from unsold inventory, a problem not fully solved by its recycling or material initiatives.

Our Verdict: Marks & Spencer's Ethical & Sustainability Grades

Marks & Spencer is a clear step above fast fashion giants, driven by genuine public commitments and measurable progress. However, significant shortcomings in enforcing living wages and meeting ambitious environmental goals prevent it from being a true industry leader.

Ethical Practices: B

M&S earns a B for its efforts in supply chain transparency, strong animal welfare policies, and participation in ethical trading initiatives. However, the failure to ensure all workers in its global supply chain are paid a verified living wage is a major moral gap that keeps it from a higher grade. It does more than the average retailer but has yet to solve the industry’s most critical labor issues.

Sustainability: C+

The brand receives a C+ for sustainability. Being a B Corp and setting net-zero targets is admirable, and its "Shwopping" program and increased use of sustainable cotton show positive intent. This progress is undermined by slow progress on climate goals, a continued reliance on high-impact materials, and a lack of full transparency on its massive supply chain footprint.

Ethical & Sustainable Alternatives to Marks & Spencer

If you like Marks & Spencer's classic style but want brands with stronger, more consistent ethical and sustainability credentials, consider these alternatives:

Boden

Boden offers timeless and family-friendly apparel with a similar quality focus. As a certified B Corp, it maintains a transparent supply chain, uses a high percentage of sustainable materials like organic cotton, and guarantees fair labor practices with its suppliers.

Shop now at boden.co.uk

Thought

Thought creates classic, comfortable clothing using sustainable-first materials like organic cotton, hemp, and TENCEL™. The B Corp certified brand is committed to ethical manufacturing and thoughtful, slow design principles at a comparable mid-range price point.

Shop now at wearethought.com

Seasalt Cornwall

This UK-based B Corp specializes in coastal-inspired womenswear made from natural fabrics like organic cotton and linen. Seasalt is committed to ethical relationships with its suppliers, actively works to reduce its carbon footprint, and is a member of the Ethical Trading Initiative.

Shop now at seasaltcornwall.com

People Tree

As a pioneer of Fair Trade fashion, People Tree guarantees its garments are made to the highest ethical and environmental standards. It offers timeless wardrobe staples made from organic and natural materials, actively promoting artisans and farmers in the developing world.

Shop now at peopletree.co.uk

Kuyichi

For denim and wardrobe basics, Kuyichi is an excellent sustainable choice. The brand focuses exclusively on using organic cotton and recycled materials, maintains fair production standards with the Fair Wear Foundation, and prioritizes timeless designs over fleeting trends.

Shop now at kuyichi.com

Frequently Asked Questions

Is M&S better than Zara or H&M?

Yes, Marks & Spencer is generally considered better than fast fashion giants like Zara and H&M. This is due to its greater emphasis on material quality, slower production cycles, more transparent supply chain reporting, and stronger public commitments to worker welfare and sustainability.

What is Marks & Spencer's "Plan A"?

"Plan A" was M&S's groundbreaking eco and ethical program first launched in 2007. It set 100 social and environmental goals for the business to achieve. While the company has since updated its targets under a new "Plan A 2025" framework, it remains a core part of its brand identity and commitment to sustainability.

Are Marks & Spencer clothes good quality?

Historically, M&S has been known for its high-quality, durable clothing. While some observers believe that quality has slightly declined in certain lines to maintain competitiveness, its garments are still generally made to a higher standard and built to last longer than items from typical fast fashion brands.

Is Marks & Spencer a B Corp?

Yes, Marks & Spencer is a certified B Corporation. This certification legally requires it to consider the impact of its decisions on its workers, customers, suppliers, community, and the environment. It is one of the largest high-street retailers to achieve this status, signifying a verified commitment to social and environmental governance.