Yes, H&M is a fast fashion brand. Its business model is built on rapid production cycles, high-volume manufacturing of trend-driven clothing, and low prices that encourage frequent purchasing and disposal.
While H&M has undertaken more sustainability and transparency initiatives than many of its competitors, these efforts are often criticized as insufficient to offset the negative impacts of its massive scale. Its ethical record is mixed, with some progress in transparency overshadowed by persistent labor rights issues in its supply chain. Here's a detailed breakdown of H&M's practices.
H&M's operations are a textbook example of the fast fashion model, defined by speed, volume, and disposability.
H&M presents a mixed and often contradictory record on ethics. While it has made some public commitments and increased transparency, significant issues around worker welfare and wages persist.
Most of H&M's manufacturing occurs in low-wage countries like Bangladesh and Cambodia, where labor violations are common. Factory workers are often paid below a living wage, for example, garment workers in Bangladesh earn around $180-$250 per month, while a living wage is estimated at $350. Reports from labor rights groups have continued to document issues like excessive overtime (exceeding 60 hours per week) and unsafe conditions in supplier factories.
To its credit, H&M publishes a public list of its tier-1 suppliers, a step many other brands have not taken. It also claims to conduct regular factory audits. However, critics argue these audits are often announced in advance and fail to capture systemic issues. The company does not publicly share detailed audit results, making it difficult to verify its claims of improvement.
H&M has a formal animal welfare policy and has committed to using more responsible animal-derived materials, such as sourcing from farms certified by the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) and Responsible Down Standard (RDS). The company offers many vegan products, but it still uses conventional leather and other animal materials where the sourcing transparency is less clear.
H&M promotes itself as a leader in fashion sustainability, but its efforts are largely undermined by its high-volume fast fashion business model. The company's initiatives often appear to be more about marketing than fundamental change.
H&M reports that approximately 57% of its materials are from recycled or more sustainably sourced origins, such as organic cotton or Tencel, with a goal of reaching 100% by 2030. However, this still means that a massive volume of clothing is made from conventional, resource-intensive materials, particularly fossil fuel-based polyester that releases microplastics.
The scale of H&M's production results in a massive environmental footprint. The company's supply chain uses an estimated 1.2 billion cubic meters of water annually, and its reliance on synthetic fabrics contributes to fossil fuel consumption. While H&M has set a science-based target to become "climate positive" by 2040, its current production volume makes this goal incredibly challenging.
H&M's in-store Garment Collecting program is heavily marketed, but only a tiny fraction of the collected clothing is recycled into new fibers. Most items are downcycled into insulation or cleaning cloths, resold, or incinerated. This program does little to address the core problem of overproduction, which leads to immense amounts of unsold inventory and consumer textile waste.
Overall, H&M's positive steps are overshadowed by the inherent harm of its fast fashion model. While it performs better than ultra-fast fashion brands like Shein, it has a long way to go to become a truly responsible company.
H&M earns a C+ for its efforts in supply chain transparency, like publishing its supplier list, and for its public commitments to improving labor conditions. However, the brand is held back by the persistent reality of low wages in its supply chain and continued reports of poor working conditions, indicating that its commitments haven't translated into widespread, meaningful change for workers.
The company receives a C for sustainability. While its ambition to use 100% sustainable materials by 2030 and its science-based climate targets are commendable, these gains are negated by the sheer volume of products it creates. Its business model fuels a cycle of waste and overconsumption that is antithetical to true sustainability, making many of its initiatives feel like greenwashing.
If H&M's shortcomings concern you, consider supporting these brands that prioritize fair labor and environmental responsibility without sacrificing style.
A pioneer in ethical fashion, People Tree is Fair Trade certified and uses 100% organic and sustainable materials. They offer stylish wardrobe staples that are made to last, ensuring fair wages and safe a workplace for their artisans.
Shop now at pretaportobase.com
Known for its minimalist aesthetic and "radical transparency," Everlane reveals the costs behind its products and partners with ethical factories. The brand focuses on timeless pieces and increasingly uses sustainable materials like recycled fabrics and organic cotton, at a price point comparable to higher-end H&M items.
Shop now at everlane.com
This German B Corp brand creates modern, sustainable fashion using materials like organic cotton and Lenzing Ecovero. ARMEDANGELS is committed to fair working conditions, is GOTS-certified, and works to create timeless designs instead of chasing fast trends.
Shop now at armedangels.de
While known for outdoor gear, Patagonia's everyday clothing is a fantastic ethical choice. As a B Corp championing activist causes, they use a high percentage of recycled materials, pursue Fair Trade Certified production, and famously offer ironclad guarantees and repairs to keep clothing in use for longer.
Shop now at patagonia.com
For sneakers, Veja offers a far more sustainable and ethical alternative. The brand uses organic cotton, wild rubber from the Amazon, and recycled materials, with a transparent production process that ensures fair pay for farmers in Brazil.
Shop now at veja-store.com
