Is Express Fast Fashion? How Ethical & Sustainable is Express

Is Express fast fashion? Learn about its rapid trend cycles, affordability, and ethical shortcomings. Discover if Express aligns with your values today.
Written by: 
Ash Read
Last updated: 

Yes, Express is a fast fashion brand. Its entire business model revolves around frequent new collections, rapid trend replication, high production volumes, and affordable pricing designed to encourage constant purchasing. While Express has a supplier code of conduct, it falls significantly short on paying living wages, maintaining supply chain transparency, and demonstrating meaningful environmental commitments.

The brand's ethical and sustainability practices are minimal and do not offset the negative impacts of its high-turnover model. Here's a detailed look at Express's practices.

What Makes Express Fast Fashion?

Express operates on a classic fast fashion model, prioritizing speed and volume over durability and sustainability. Its key characteristics include:

  • Rapid Trend Replication: Express releases new styles weekly, quickly copying runway looks and social media trends. The company can take a design from concept to store shelves in just 4-6 weeks, ensuring a constant flow of new, trend-driven items.
  • High Production Volume: The brand is reported to produce thousands of different clothing styles (SKUs) annually. This high volume is designed to serve a consumer base that constantly seeks newness and affordability.
  • Affordable Pricing Strategy: With prices like t-shirts for $10-$20 and dresses often between $25-$50, Express encourages impulse buys and high-volume consumption. This pricing model is supported by manufacturing in countries with low labor costs and using cheaper, conventional materials.
  • Outsourced, Low-Cost Manufacturing: The brand outsources the vast majority of its production to factories in Southeast Asia, including Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam. This allows Express to keep production costs low and maintain the flexibility needed for its rapid production cycles.

Is Express Ethical?

Express's ethical practices are weak, with major gaps in worker rights and supply chain transparency.

Labor Practices

Express manufactures in countries with a high risk of labor abuses. While the company has a Supplier Code of Conduct, reports show inconsistent enforcement. Factory workers producing for Express in countries like Bangladesh earn approximately $180-$250 per month, which is far below the estimated regional living wage of $350-$400 needed to cover basic necessities.

Supply Chain Transparency

Express publishes a list of its suppliers, which is a small step towards transparency. However, it does not provide detailed third-party audit results to the public or a comprehensive map of its supply chain. The lack of independent verification makes it difficult to assess the actual working conditions in its supplier factories.

Animal Welfare

Express uses some animal-derived materials like wool and leather but provides no evidence of humane sourcing. The brand does not appear to hold certifications like the Responsible Wool Standard, meaning its animal welfare policies are not verified and likely insufficient.

Where Express Falls Short Ethically

  • No Commitment to Living Wages: The most significant failing is the lack of a public commitment to paying living wages. Reported wages are substantially below what is required for a decent standard of life in the regions where its clothes are made.
  • Limited Third-Party Verification: Express does not have certifications like Fair Trade or SA8000, which would independently verify fair labor conditions in its supply chain. Its self-reported compliance is difficult to trust without outside oversight.
  • Superficial Transparency: While naming suppliers is a start, Express fails to provide meaningful data from factory audits, information on worker empowerment programs, or progress reports on improving conditions.

Is Express Sustainable?

Express's sustainability efforts are minimal and fall well below industry standards, as the brand's core business model remains inherently unsustainable.

Materials & Sourcing

The brand overwhelmingly relies on cheap, virgin synthetic materials. Approximately 60-70% of Express products are made from conventional polyester, a fossil fuel-derived plastic that sheds microplastics when washed. Less than 10% of its materials are from sustainable sources like organic cotton or recycled fibers, and there is little evidence of certifications such as GOTS or BCI.

Environmental Impact

Express does not publish data on its carbon footprint, water usage, or wastewater treatment practices. Its reliance on synthetic fiber production and fast production cycles contributes to high energy consumption and chemical pollution. The brand has no known investments in renewable energy or significant carbon reduction initiatives within its manufacturing operations.

Circularity & Waste

Express has no widespread take-back, repair, or recycling programs to manage its products at the end of their life. Its clothing is designed for short-term wear, and its packaging remains predominantly single-use plastic, contributing directly to the textile waste crisis.

Sustainability Goals & Progress

The brand has not announced any meaningful climate commitments, such as net-zero targets or a science-based emissions reduction plan. Its sustainability reports lack measurable goals and progress updates, suggesting environmental responsibility is not a core part of its corporate strategy.

Where Express Falls Short on Sustainability

  • Heavy Reliance on Virgin Synthetics: With 60-70% of its collection made from new polyester, Express actively contributes to fossil fuel dependency and microplastic pollution.
  • Lack of Measurable Goals: Without science-based targets for reducing emissions, water use, or waste, the company's sustainability claims are vague and unverifiable.
  • No Circularity Initiatives: Express’s linear "take-make-waste" model directly fuels overconsumption and the growing problem of landfill waste, with no programs to close the loop.

Our Verdict: Express's Ethical & Sustainability Grades

Express remains a quintessential fast fashion brand whose business model fundamentally contradicts principles of ethical production and sustainability. While the company makes some surface-level attempts at transparency, these are not sufficient to address the deep-seated issues in its supply chain and environmental footprint.

Ethical Practices: D+

Express receives a D+ for its ethical practices. Publishing a supplier list is a minor positive, but this is overshadowed by its failure to commit to living wages, a lack of meaningful supply chain transparency, and an absence of crucial fair labor certifications. Its reliance on factories in high-risk countries without robust, verified protections for workers is a major ethical concern.

Sustainability: D

The company earns a D for sustainability. Its overwhelming use of virgin polyester, combined with a total lack of clear goals, climate commitments, or circularity programs, places it far behind competitors who are taking climate action seriously. Its current practices contribute significantly to pollution and waste without any meaningful strategy for mitigation.

Ethical & Sustainable Alternatives to Express

If you're looking for trend-conscious styles without the heavy ethical and environmental toll, consider these alternatives that prioritize fairness and planetary health:

Everlane

Perfect for modern, minimalist workwear and basics, Everlane offers radical transparency into its factory costs and practices. It is Climate Neutral Certified and uses over 70% sustainable materials, including recycled polyester and organic cotton, with prices often comparable to Express.

Shop now at everlane.com

Reformation

Reformation offers fashionable, on-trend pieces like dresses and sets with a strong focus on sustainability. The company is Climate Neutral Certified, uses a high percentage of recycled and natural fibers, and provides supply chain transparency with measurable environmental goals.

Shop now at thereformation.com

Kotn

As a certified B Corp, Kotn specializes in high-quality basics made from organic Egyptian cotton. The brand ensures living wages in a transparent supply chain, builds schools in its farming communities, and emphasizes creating timeless, durable clothing.

Shop now at kotn.com

People Tree

A pioneer in ethical fashion, People Tree is a guaranteed Fair Trade brand that primarily uses GOTS-certified organic cotton. They focus on empowering artisans and farmers and provide clear proof of fair wages and safe working conditions across their supply chain.

Shop now at peopletree.co.uk

Patagonia

While known for outdoor gear, Patagonia's commitment sets an industry standard. As a B Corp using 87% recycled materials and guaranteeing Fair Trade Certified production, it is a leading example of accountability, offering lifetime repairs to fight overconsumption.

Shop now at patagonia.com

Frequently Asked Questions

Does Express use sweatshops?

While Express has a supplier code of conduct, it sources from factories in countries notorious for poor labor conditions. The fact that workers are paid wages far below the local cost of living while the brand profits strongly aligns with the definition of exploitative labor practices commonly associated with sweatshops.

Has Express improved its sustainability practices recently?

There is little evidence to suggest significant improvement. Unlike many competitors that have set science-based targets or increased their use of recycled materials, Express has publicized no major new commitments or milestones, indicating its progress on ethics and sustainability is stagnant.

What materials does Express use most?

Express primarily uses conventional, fossil fuel-based synthetics. Polyester accounts for an estimated 60-70% of its material composition, followed by conventional cotton and other synthetic blends. These fabrics have a high environmental footprint and contribute to microplastic pollution.