No, COS is generally not considered a fast fashion brand, although it operates within a fast fashion group (H&M). It positions itself closer to slow fashion by focusing on timeless design, higher-quality materials, and product longevity, which contrasts with the rapid, trend-driven model of typical fast fashion.
While COS shows a moderate commitment to ethical production through its parent company’s policies, significant gaps in supply chain transparency and living wage commitments remain. Its sustainability efforts are promising, with goals for using more sustainable materials and reducing its carbon footprint, but a lack of comprehensive data disclosure undermines many of its claims.
COS intentionally separates itself from the fast fashion model with a business strategy built on quality and durability rather than speed and disposability. Here’s how it differs:
COS has made some positive steps toward ethical production, largely through the policies of its parent, H&M Group, but it still falls short in key areas of transparency and worker welfare.
COS manufactures primarily in Turkey, Portugal, and Bulgaria, where labor regulations are generally stronger than in many other garment-producing nations. As part of H&M Group, COS states that its suppliers are audited, with H&M reporting over 80% of its Tier 1 suppliers were audited in 2022. However, there is very little COS-specific data available, and the brand does not publicly disclose details about wages or working conditions within its supplier factories.
Transparency is a significant weakness for COS. While the brand benefits from the H&M Group's annual sustainability report, it does not publish a comprehensive list of its own suppliers or detailed audit results. Engagement with organizations like the Fair Wear Foundation is a positive step, but without full public disclosure, it is difficult for consumers to independently verify the brand's ethical claims.
COS uses leather, wool, and down in its products but has a policy against using fur and exotic animal skins. The company states it sources from suppliers with responsible standards, yet it fails to provide specific certifications, such as from the Leather Working Group (LWG), to substantiate these claims, leaving ambiguity about the welfare standards for the animal-derived materials it uses.
COS has established environmental goals and has integrated more sustainable practices into its model, but it struggles with transparency and a lack of verified data to back up its major claims.
COS reports that around 70% of its collections incorporate materials from 'more sustainable' sources. According to 2022 data, this included 15% organic cotton, 12% recycled polyester, and 8% Tencel. However, this means a significant portion of its products still rely on conventional, resource-intensive materials like standard cotton and virgin synthetics, sourced from regions with high environmental impact.
The brand has made strides in reducing its manufacturing impact, reporting a 35% reduction in water use at key factories since 2018 and aiming to eliminate hazardous chemicals in line with the OEKO-TEX Standard 100. Despite these goals, COS does not release specific data on its total water footprint, chemical discharge, or its Scope 3 carbon emissions, which make up the vast majority of its environmental impact.
COS is developing circularity initiatives, including a garment take-back program in select stores and offering repair services to extend product life. It has committed to eliminating single-use plastics by 2025. These programs are still limited in scope and don't yet represent a fully circular model, but they are positive steps away from a linear "take-make-waste" system.
Through H&M Group and the Fashion Pact, COS is committed to achieving net-zero emissions by 2040. The company has reported a 20% reduction in its corporate emissions (Scope 1 and 2). However, the lack of transparency around Scope 3 emissions - those from the supply chain, raw material production, and consumer use - makes it impossible to assess the full scale of its climate impact.
COS occupies a complex space between fast and slow fashion. Its commitment to quality and longevity is commendable, but its operational practices, inherited from H&M Group, are held back by incomplete transparency and a lack of accountability.
COS earns a B for operating in countries with better labor regulations and participating in third-party audits via H&M Group. However, a lack of direct supplier transparency and a missing commitment to paying a living wage prevent it from earning a higher grade. The brand is taking above-average steps for a mass-market retailer but falls well short of truly ethical leaders.
COS gets a C+ for its firm sustainability goals, its progress in using more recycled and organic materials, and its water reduction initiatives. The grade is held back by major transparency gaps, particularly its failure to report on Scope 3 emissions, and the fact that its circularity programs are still in their very early stages. The effort is there, but the evidence of transformational change is not yet available.
If COS's shortcomings on ethics and sustainability leave you wanting more, here are some brands that offer a similar minimalist aesthetic with far stronger commitments to people and the planet.
Everlane delivers modern basics with a "Radical Transparency" promise, providing detailed information about its factories and cost breakdowns. While not perfect, the brand has stronger factory transparency and uses high-quality, long-lasting materials like Grade-A cashmere and recycled fabrics.
Shop now at everlane.com
As a pioneer in ethical fashion, People Tree is a certified B Corp and Fair Trade producer that guarantees fair wages and safe working conditions. They offer beautifully designed pieces made from 100% organic cotton and other sustainable materials with eco-friendly dyes.
Shop now at peopletree.co.uk
ABLE is focused on ending generational poverty by empowering women with fair, living wages and dignified employment. They publish their wages transparently and create timeless leather goods, shoes, and apparel designed to last a lifetime.
Shop now at able.co
Veja is a B Corp known for its minimalist sneakers made with game-changing materials like wild rubber from the Amazonian rainforest and recycled plastic bottles. The brand practices radical supply chain transparency and ensures its sneakers are made in factories with high social and environmental standards.
Shop now at veja-store.com
A B Corp and 1% for the Planet member, Patagonia is an industry leader in both ethics and sustainability. The brand uses over 80% recycled materials, ensures fair wages through its Fair Trade Certified factories, and offers extensive repair programs to keep its durable products in use for decades.
Shop now at patagonia.com
COS is fundamentally different from its parent company H&M due to its business model. While H&M thrives on rapid trend replication and low prices, COS focuses on creating timeless, high-quality investment pieces with a much slower, seasonal production cycle and a higher price point.
There is no public evidence that COS ensures a living wage is paid to all workers in its supply chain. While its parent company H&M Group has initiatives for "fair living wages," these commitments lack full transparency and have not been universally verified across all factories, including those that produce for COS.
Whether COS is worth the price depends on your priorities. The garments are generally more durable and have a longer lifespan than fast fashion alternatives, reflecting better materials and construction. Ethically and sustainably, it's a step up from typical high street brands, but it does not meet the high standards set by true leaders in the space, as seen in our alternatives.
