Hermès Togo vs. Epsom: Which one is better?

Hermès Togo vs. Epsom leather: Discover the differences in texture, durability, and style to choose the perfect leather for your luxury collection.
Spencer Lanoue
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Spencer Lanoue
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The choice between Hermès Togo and Epsom leathers comes down to structure and texture. Togo is a soft, pebbled calfskin prized for its scratch resistance and relaxed, supple feel that develops character over time. In contrast, Epsom is a firm, embossed calfskin known for being lightweight, water-resistant, and incredibly shape-retentive, maintaining a pristine, rigid silhouette indefinitely.

Here’s a detailed comparison to help you decide which iconic Hermès leather is the right choice for your lifestyle and aesthetic.

Hermès Togo Leather

Introduced in 1997, Togo is one of Hermès' most popular and recognizable leathers. It is a pebbled calfskin derived from a female calf, offering a perfect balance between softness and durability. Celebrated for its resilience against scratches, Togo is an excellent choice for a daily-use handbag, as minor marks tend to blend seamlessly into its natural, textured grain.

  • What it is: A soft, pebbled calfskin with a matte appearance and distinct vertical veining.
  • Key features: Highly resistant to scratches, supple and flexible texture, develops a beautiful slouch and rich patina as it ages.
  • Price: An Hermès Birkin 30 in Togo typically costs between $12,000 and $15,000, varying by hardware and color.
  • Telltale Look & Feel: Noticeably grainy to the touch with raised pebbles. It has a soft, almost plush feel that is still substantial and highly durable.
  • Pros: Very difficult to scratch, ages beautifully by softening and developing character, feels luxurious and comfortable to carry, easy to have refurbished at an Hermès spa.
  • Cons: Can develop a slouch in larger, less structured bags over time, sensitive to water and can develop water spots if not wiped dry promptly.

This leather is ideal for the person who wants a luxurious workhorse bag for everyday use, valuing a material that ages gracefully and hides daily wear.

Explore bags with this leather: hermes.com/us/en/category/leather/togo/

Hermès Epsom Leather

Epsom is not a natural-grain leather, its fine, cross-hatched pattern is heat-pressed into the calfskin. This process creates a rigid, lightweight material that is exceptionally durable and incredibly easy to care for. Its laminated finish helps it repel water and makes it much less prone to scratching than smooth leathers, while its sturdy nature ensures the bag's silhouette remains crisp and structured.

  • What it is: An embossed calfskin with a rigid structure and a fine, uniform grain.
  • Key features: Very lightweight, highly resistant to water and stains, maintains its shape perfectly over time, easy to clean.
  • Price: An Hermès Birkin 30 in Epsom often ranges from $13,000 to $16,000, reflecting its structured quality and crisp finish.
  • Telltale Look & Feel: Has a slightly glossy, laminated appearance and a firm feel. The regular, cross-hatched pattern has a refined, polished look.
  • Pros: Excellent shape retention (will not sag or slouch), easy to wipe clean, lightweight, holds color exceptionally well, making vibrant shades pop.
  • Cons: Scratches, while rare, can be more visually apparent than on grained leathers, corners can show rubbing and wear over time, can feel stiff to the touch.

This leather is perfect for someone who prefers a formal, structured bag that remains unchanged over years of use and requires minimal maintenance.

Explore bags with this leather: hermes.com/us/en/category/leather/epsom/

Togo vs. Epsom Comparison

Style & Aesthetic

The biggest distinction between Togo and Epsom is the overall look they create. Togo's natural grain and supple nature lead to a slightly relaxed, understated elegance. Over time, it softens and may develop a subtle slouch, a characteristic many collectors appreciate as it adds personality to the bag. It’s perfect for a sophisticated but not overly formal daily bag.

Epsom, by contrast, is the definition of sharp and polished. Bags made from Epsom leather will look nearly identical on day one and after five years of use. This makes it ideal for structured bags like the Kelly Sellier, where crisp lines and a rigid silhouette are paramount. It reads as more formal and is often chosen for professional or occasion wear.

Durability & Wear

Both leathers are exceptionally durable, but in different ways. Togo's pebbled texture is its greatest asset for hiding wear, it is incredibly good at masking minor scratches and scuffs that come with daily use. Its main vulnerability is water, which can leave marks if not addressed quickly.

Epsom's primary strength is its resistance to water and its unyielding structure. A quick wipe with a soft cloth is usually all it needs for upkeep. While it doesn't scratch easily, if a deep scratch does occur, it can be more noticeable against the uniform pattern. Additionally, the corners on structured Epsom bags can be more prone to showing wear from rubbing over time.

Feel & Weight

In hand, the two leathers are completely different. Togo feels organically soft, rich, and pliable. It has a satisfying, luxurious hand-feel that is substantial yet flexible. It is also surprisingly light for a grained leather.

Epsom is famous for being one of Hermès' lightest leathers. It feels dry, firm, and rigid to the touch. Because the grain is pressed on, it lacks the supple, plush feel of a naturally pebbled leather like Togo, but this is a trade-off for its unmatched shape retention.

Price & Value

While prices are set by the handbag model rather than just the leather, an Epsom bag is often priced slightly higher than its Togo equivalent. This is reflected in prices for bags like the Birkin and Kelly. Both leathers command extremely high resale value, often selling for well above their original retail prices on the secondary market. The choice between them has little impact on investment potential, condition, color, and hardware are typically more significant factors.

Which One Should You Choose?

Both are excellent choices that embody the quality of Hermès, but they cater to very different personal styles and usage needs.

Choose Togo if:

  • You plan to use your handbag frequently and want a material that resists and hides scratches from daily wear.
  • You appreciate a more relaxed aesthetic and love when leather develops a unique patina over time.
  • You prioritize a soft, supple feel over a completely rigid structure.
  • Your style leans toward understated, classic luxury.

Choose Epsom if:

  • You want a meticulously structured bag that will never sag or lose its shape.
  • You value a lightweight material that is easy to clean and resistant to water.
  • You prefer a formal, polished look for work or special events.
  • You want your bag's vibrant color to remain intensely saturated and bright over its lifetime.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the main difference between Hermès Togo and Epsom leather?

The primary difference is fabrication and structure. Togo is a naturally pebbled calfskin that is soft, scratch-resistant, and slightly slouchy. Epsom is an embossed calfskin that is rigid, lightweight, water-resistant, and holds its shape perfectly.

Which leather is more durable, Togo or Epsom?

They are durable in different ways. Togo is better at hiding scratches due to its texture, making it great for daily use. Epsom is more resistant to water and stains and maintains its structure indefinitely, but significant scratches can be more visible.

Is Togo or Epsom more expensive?

In comparable models, handbags made from Epsom leather are often priced slightly higher than those made from Togo leather.

Is Epsom real leather?

Yes, Epsom is 100% real calfskin leather. The fine, cross-hatched grain is a pattern that has been embossed onto the leather's surface with heat, rather than being the leather's natural texture.

Which leather is heavier?

Both are considered lightweight leathers in the Hermès collection. Epsom is known for being exceptionally lightweight, but there is no dramatic weight difference between the two to sway a decision.

Does Togo leather sag over time?

In larger bags like a Birkin 35 or 40, Togo's natural softness can lead to a graceful slouch over many years. Many enthusiasts prefer this look as it gives the bag a relaxed, broken-in character. Smaller Togo bags hold their shape very well.

Which leather is better for a Birkin or Kelly bag?

This is entirely a matter of personal preference. For a crisp, formal look that retains the bag's architectural lines (like a Kelly Sellier), Epsom is ideal. For a more casual, everyday Birkin that will age with you, Togo is a classic and beloved choice.

Which leather holds its value better?

Both Togo and Epsom leathers have excellent resale value. A bag's value on the secondary market depends more on its condition, model, size, color, and hardware combination than the specific choice between these two popular leathers.