Hermès Togo Leather vs. Epsom: Here's how they compare

One of the most important decisions when investing in an Hermès bag is choosing the leather, and Togo and Epsom are two of the most popular options. Togo is a soft, matte calfskin with a natural pebbled grain, cherished for its resilience and casual elegance, while Epsom is a rigid, embossed calfskin known for its glossy finish and impeccable structure. Though both are exceptionally durable and lightweight, they offer completely different aesthetics and textures.

Here’s everything you need to know to decide between these two iconic Hermès leathers for your next handbag.

Hermès Togo Leather

Togo is a hallmark Hermès leather, celebrated for its soft and supple feel. Made from calfskin, it has a distinct pebble-grain texture and a matte finish that exudes a refined yet relaxed luxury. Popular for classics like the Birkin and Kelly, Togo is famously durable and its textured surface is excellent at hiding scratches and scuffs, making it a practical choice for a daily-use handbag.

• What it is: A soft, lightweight, and durable calfskin with a natural pebble-grain texture and matte finish.
• Key features: Supple feel that softens over time, visible natural grain, excellent scratch-concealing properties, and a subtle lustre.
• Price: Bags made from Togo, such as a Birkin, typically start around $10,000 to $15,000.
• Materials/Construction: High-quality calfskin treated to create a pliable and resilient material that ages gracefully.
• Pros: Excellent at hiding minor scratches, soft and luxurious to the touch, lightweight great for everyday use, develops a beautiful character over time.
• Cons: Softer structure means it can slouch or lose some shape in larger bags over time, can absorb moisture if not cared for properly.

This leather is ideal for anyone seeking a versatile, resilient handbag for everyday luxury that masterfully conceals the signs of wear.

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Hermès Epsom Leather

Epsom leather is the epitome of structure and polish. It is a coated, embossed calfskin, which means the grain is not natural but rather pressed into the leather. This process gives it a rigid, almost laminated finish that is lightweight, highly scratch-resistant, and incredibly easy to clean. Because it holds its shape perfectly, Epsom is a favorite for structured bags like the Kelly Sellier and Constance.

• What it is: A coated, embossed calfskin with a firm structure, a fine cross-hatch grain, and a glossy finish.
• Key features: Excellent shape retention, highly resistant to scratches and water, very lightweight, uniform appearance.
• Price: Bags in Epsom leather typically range from $9,000 to $14,000, similar to Togo.
• Materials/Construction: Embossed calfskin with a protective coating that enhances its durability and gives it a slight sheen.
• Pros: Maintains its shape impeccably, highly resistant to scratching, easy to wipe clean, lightweight, provides a formal and polished look.
• Cons: Feels rigid to the touch, does not develop a patina or soften over time, deep scratches can be difficult to repair.

This is the perfect choice for someone who values a crisp, structured silhouette that remains pristine and polished year after year.

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Hermès Togo vs. Epsom Leather Comparison

Style & Aesthetic

The aesthetic difference between Togo and Epsom is clear at first glance. Togo leather offers a relaxed, casual elegance. Its matte finish and natural pebbled grain create a soft, inviting look that's perfect for a daily companion and can be dressed up or down with ease. The leather has a depth and character that many collectors prize.

In contrast, Epsom is all about polished formality. Its rigid structure, fine embossed grain, and subtle sheen lend a crisp, architectural quality to a handbag. An Epsom bag presents a consistently sharp and put-together appearance, making it an excellent choice for work, professional settings, or formal occasions where a structured silhouette is desired.

Texture & Feel

In hand, the two leathers feel completely different. Togo is known for its soft, supple, almost malleable nature. It has a rich, grainy texture that feels luxurious and warm to the touch. Over time, Togo leather becomes even softer and more pliable, conforming slightly to its owner's use.

Epsom is firm and rigid. Its embossed surface feels drier and smoother than Togo's natural grain. Because it's designed to hold its shape indefinitely, it doesn't offer the same soft, yielding quality. For those who prioritize structure above all, this rigidity is a primary benefit.

Durability & Maintenance

Both leathers are known for their exceptional durability, but they achieve it in different ways. Togo’s strength lies in its ability to camouflage wear. The pebbled texture is fantastic at hiding small scuffs and scratches, making it a worry-free option for frequent use. It requires minimal maintenance but should be protected from heavy rain.

Epsom’s durability comes from its scratch-resistant surface. The embossed coating can ward off everyday nicks and is also more water-resistant than Togo. Furthermore, it's very easy to clean, a simple wipe with a soft, dry cloth is usually all that’s needed. While it resists superficial scratches well, a deep gouge can be more noticeable and harder to repair than on Togo.

Structure & Shape Retention

This is perhaps the most significant point of difference. Epsom leather provides uncompromising structure. A bag made from Epsom will look as crisp and new in ten years as it did on day one, with no slumping or slouching. It maintains the designer’s intended silhouette perfectly.

Togo, being naturally softer, is prone to developing a slight slouch over time, particularly in larger bag formats like the Birkin 35. Many Hermès aficionados love this quality, as it gives the bag a more relaxed and personalized character. However, if you want your bag to stand tall and firm indefinitely, Epsom is the better choice.

Which One Should You Choose?

Both are outstanding choices from Hermès, but they cater to very different stylistic and functional preferences.

Choose Togo leather if:

• You prefer a soft, supple texture with a natural feel.
• You want a bag with casual, understated elegance for everyday use.
• You appreciate a leather that skillfully hides minor scratches and scuffs.
• You love the relaxed, character-rich look bags develop as they age.

Choose Epsom leather if:

• You prioritize a very structured silhouette that never loses its shape.
• You need a highly scratch-resistant and easy-to-clean handbag.
• You prefer a polished, crisp look that is perfect for formal or professional settings.
• You want a lightweight bag that always looks sharp and new.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the main difference between Hermès Togo and Epsom leather?

The main difference is texture and structure. Togo is a soft, natural grain calfskin with a matte finish that can develop a slight slouch over time. Epsom is a rigid, embossed calfskin with a glossy finish that holds its shape perfectly.

Which leather is more durable, Togo or Epsom?

Both are highly durable. Epsom is more scratch-resistant on the surface, while Togo's pebbled texture is better at hiding scratches and wear. For maintenance and longevity, they are considered equally robust choices in the luxury world.

Does Togo leather scratch easily?

No, Togo leather is one of the most resilient options precisely because its natural grain conceals scuffs and minor imperfections so well, making it ideal for daily use.

Does Epsom leather soften over time?

No, Epsom is specifically engineered to maintain its form and rigidity. It will not soften, slouch, or change shape with use, which is a key part of its appeal.

Which leather is heavier, Togo or Epsom?

Both leathers are prized for being lightweight. However, enthusiasts often note that Epsom is exceptionally light, making it very comfortable to carry, even in larger sizes.

Which leather is better for a Birkin bag?

Togo is one of the most classic and popular leathers for the Birkin, as its supple nature gives the bag a characteristic relaxed sophistication. Epsom provides a more rigid, structured Birkin, which is also a popular but more formal-looking choice. The "better" option is purely down to personal preference for a soft vs. stiff silhouette.

Is Epsom real leather?

Yes, Epsom is 100% genuine calfskin. The texture isn't natural to the hide, instead, a fine-grain pattern is machine-pressed into the leather, which is then coated for durability.

How do you clean Epsom vs. Togo leather?

Epsom's coated surface is very easy to clean and can be wiped with a soft, slightly damp cloth. Togo is more absorbent and should be cared for with a dry, soft cloth. For anything beyond minor spots, professional cleaning is recommended for both.