Hermès Haut à Courroies vs. Birkin: Which one is better?

While the Hermès Haut à Courroies (HAC) and the famed Hermès Birkin share a similar silhouette and the same unparalleled craftsmanship, their core differences lie in their history, proportions, and purpose. The HAC is the original, taller tote designed in the early 1900s for equestrian gear, giving it a North-South orientation, while the Birkin is its more famous, wider descendant, designed for modern luxury with an East-West profile.

Here's everything you need to know to decide which legendary bag from Hermès is the right fit for your collection and lifestyle.

Hermès Haut à Courroies (HAC)

The Haut à Courroies, which translates to "high belts," is the very first bag designed by Hermès and the progenitor to many of its iconic styles, including the Birkin. It was originally engineered in the early 20th century as a functional, durable tote for equestrians to carry their saddles and riding boots. Its design is defined by its taller, more vertical proportions and slightly longer handles, reflecting its utilitarian heritage.

• What it is: A historic, oversized tote with a taller, rectangular shape originally designed for equestrian use.
• Key features: Recognizable for its taller North-South proportions, making it look vertically elongated compared to a Birkin. The handles are also slightly longer to accommodate its larger size and original purpose.
• Price: Typically ranges from $10,000 to $20,000, often making it a slightly more accessible entry point than the Birkin for a large leather bag.
• Materials/Construction: Crafted with the same meticulous attention to detail and from the same premium leathers (Togo, Clemence, Epsom) as the Birkin. It is handmade by a single artisan in France.
• Sizing/Fit: Tends to be produced in larger sizes like 40cm, 50cm, and even 60cm. Its substantial size makes it an excellent travel bag, weekender, or statement piece for those who prefer a larger bag profile.
• Pros: A more understated "if you know, you know" appeal. Rich historical significance as the brand's original bag. Excellent for travel due to its capacious interior. Often less difficult to acquire than a Birkin.
• Cons: Larger sizes can be heavy and unwieldy for daily use. Not as instantly recognizable or as much of a status symbol as the Birkin. Less variety in smaller, everyday-friendly sizes.

This bag is for the Hermès connoisseur who appreciates history, understated luxury, and needs a functional, spacious bag for travel or carrying more substantial items.

Shop this product: hermes.com/us/en/product/haut-a-courroies-bag/

Hermès Birkin

The Hermès Birkin is arguably the most famous luxury handbag in the world, evolving from the HAC's design in 1984 after CEO Jean-Louis Dumas met actress Jane Birkin on a flight. She wanted a chic, practical weekend bag, leading to a new design with wider, more accessible proportions. Purpose-built for everyday elegance, the Birkin has a horizontal orientation and shorter top handles, cementing its place as a symbol of status and refined taste.

• What it is: A globally recognized icon of luxury with a structured, rectangular silhouette modified for modern, daily use.
• Key features: Characterized by its wider, East-West profile, which makes it look more grounded and landscape-oriented. It has shorter handles designed to be carried in-hand or in the crook of the arm, along with the signature flap, touret, clochette, and padlock.
• Price: Starts around $12,000 for standard leathers and readily surpasses $50,000 for exotic skins, with resale values often exceeding the original price.
• Materials/Construction: Handcrafted by a single artisan from the world's finest leathers (Togo, Epsom, Clemence) and exotic skins (crocodile, alligator, ostrich) with customizable hardware.
• Sizing/Fit: Available in a versatile range of sizes, including 25cm, 30cm, 35cm, and 40cm. The smaller sizes are perfect for daily use and events, while the larger sizes function well as work or travel totes.
• Pros: The ultimate symbol of prestige and luxury. A proven investment piece that often appreciates in value. Highly versatile sizing makes it suitable for countless occasions. Instantly recognizable design.
• Cons: Extremely difficult to purchase directly from an Hermès boutique. Carries a significantly higher price tag on both primary and resale markets. Can be quite heavy, especially in the larger sizes.

The Birkin is for a collector who desires an iconic, recognizable piece of luxury, sees their handbag as an investment, and wants a versatile bag that makes a definitive statement.

Shop this product: hermes.com/us/en/product/birkin/

Hermès Haut à Courroies vs. Birkin Comparison

Proportions & Design

The most immediate visual difference between the HAC and the Birkin is their proportion. The Haut à Courroies has a distinct vertical, or North-South, orientation. It is taller than it is wide, a direct result of its original function - to hold a riding saddle. This tallness gives it a stately, tote-like appearance.

In contrast, the Birkin bag was redesigned to be wider than it is tall, featuring a horizontal, or East-West, profile. This change makes it feel more like a traditional handbag, with easier access to its contents. The handle drop is also a key differentiator, the HAC’s handles are slightly longer to balance its height, while the Birkin’s are shorter and designed for hand or forearm carrying.

History & Purpose

The purpose behind each bag’s creation defines its character. The HAC is a piece of Hermès history, born from a practical equestrian need in the early 20th century. Its soul is utilitarian, designed for durability and capacity. Owning a HAC connects you to the origins of the Hermès brand itself.

The Birkin, born in 1984, is a product of modern luxury sensibilities. It was conceived for a style icon, Jane Birkin, who needed a bag that was both elegant and roomy enough for her jet-setting lifestyle. Its purpose from day one was to be the ultimate chic carry-all, a mission it has successfully fulfilled for decades.

Price & Investment Value

While both bags represent a considerable financial commitment, the Birkin almost always commands a higher price. Its status as a cultural phenomenon and investment asset has driven its value to phenomenal heights on both the retail and resale markets. A brand new Birkin is notorious for its waiting list, making its resale value incredibly strong, often appreciating over time.

The HAC, while still a precious luxury good, is generally less expensive and has a quieter resale market. It is more of a purchase for personal enjoyment and appreciation of craftsmanship rather than a speculative financial investment. Its lower demand means it can sometimes be acquired with less difficulty than its famous counterpart.

Status & Exclusivity

There's no debate that the Birkin is the undisputed champion of status. It is a handbag recognized across the globe as a symbol of wealth and access. Carrying a Birkin sends a clear message of prestige.

The HAC, however, offers a different kind of exclusivity - one of discretion. It appeals to the seasoned luxury buyer who appreciates heritage over hype. It’s a subtle nod to the brand’s history, recognized by fellow connoisseurs but likely to fly under the radar of the general public. It's less of a statement piece and more of a personal treasure.

Which One Should You Choose?

Both are exceptional bags crafted to the highest standard, but they cater to very different buyers.

Choose the Haut à Courroies if:

• You are a history buff who loves the story behind your fashion pieces.
• You prefer understated elegance and discreet luxury over mainstream status symbols.
• You need a generously sized bag for travel, weekends away, or as a chic work tote.
• You want an iconic design from Hermès that is more unique and less commonly seen.

Choose the Birkin if:

• You want to own the most iconic and recognizable luxury handbag in the world.
• You view your purchase as a financial investment that is likely to hold or increase its value.
• You need a versatile bag and want options in smaller sizes for daily carrying (25cm, 30cm).
• You are motivated by the prestige and status that comes with carrying a Birkin.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the main difference between a HAC and a Birkin?

The primary difference is their proportions. The Haut à Courroies (HAC) is taller and more vertically oriented, designed originally as an equestrian bag. The Birkin is wider and more horizontally oriented, designed as a modern luxury handbag.

Is a Haut à Courroies a Birkin?

No, the HAC is not a Birkin. It is the original bag design from which the Birkin was later derived. Think of the HAC as the ancestor of the Birkin.

Which is older, the HAC or the Birkin?

The Haut à Courroies is much older. It was created in the early 1900s, whereas the Birkin was created in 1984.

Which is more expensive?

Generally, the Birkin is more expensive than the HAC, especially when comparing bags of similar size and material. The Birkin's immense popularity and investment potential drive its price higher.

Which bag holds its value better?

The Birkin has a proven and robust track record as a financial investment. It consistently holds and often increases its value on the secondary market, making it the superior choice from a purely investment standpoint.

Is it easier to buy a HAC than a Birkin from Hermès?

While no premier Hermès bag is "easy" to attain, the demand for the HAC is considerably lower than for the Birkin. Because of this, clients may find it somewhat easier to be offered a HAC.

What sizes does the HAC typically come in?

The HAC is traditionally made in larger sizes suited for travel, most commonly 40cm, 50cm, and even up to 60cm, although more modern, slightly smaller versions can sometimes be found.

Why are the proportions so different?

The proportions are directly related to their original functions. The HAC needed to be tall to accommodate riding saddles and boots. The Birkin was created to be a versatile daily or weekend bag, so a wider shape with easier access to contents was more practical.