Hermès HAC 32 vs. Birkin 35: Which size is right for you?

The Hermès Haut à Courroies (HAC) 32 and the Birkin 35 are two of luxury fashion's most iconic bags, sharing a similar closure system but differing significantly in their shape and heritage. The HAC is the taller, more historic forerunner with a distinct north-south profile originally designed for equestrians, while the Birkin 35 is its more famous, wider descendant, known for its east-west orientation and status as a modern luxury symbol.

Here is everything you need to know to decide which of these legendary bags is the right investment for you.

Hermès HAC 32

The HAC, or Haut à Courroies, is the original Hermès bag and the direct ancestor of the Birkin. First introduced in the late 1800s to carry equestrian gear like boots and a saddle, its design is defined by its taller, more structured vertical shape and shorter handles. The HAC 32 is a more contemporary, compact size of this heritage piece, offering a unique profile for collectors and those who appreciate fashion history.

• What it is: A luxury heritage bag with a tall, structured silhouette and shorter handles, featuring the classic Hermès turn-lock closure system. It's the original "Tall Courroies" bag.
• Key features: Recognizable north-south (vertical) orientation, shorter handle drop meant for hand-carrying only, and the same flap and touret closure as the Birkin.
• Price: Highly variable, depending on leather and condition. Expect prices to start from $10,000+ on the resale market, comparable to a Birkin.
• Materials/Construction: Hand-stitched in France from the world's finest leathers like Togo, Clemence, and Epsom, as well as exotic materials, often with palladium or gold-plated hardware.
• Sizing/Fit: Dimensions are approximately 32cm (L) x 28cm (H) x 16cm (W). The height is the defining feature, making it feel more like a structured tote carried in hand.
• Pros: A unique and historic piece that's a sophisticated alternative to the more common Birkin. Its vertical shape holds portfolios or documents well. Considered an "if you know, you know" piece of luxury.
• Cons: Shorter handles make it a strict hand-carry bag, it cannot be worn on the crook of the arm. The taller shape can sometimes make finding small items an issue. Less recognized than the Birkin.

This bag suits the true Hermès connoisseur who values history and a unique silhouette over widespread recognition.

Shop Hermès bags: hermes.com/us/en/category/women/bags-and-small-leather-goods

Hermès Birkin 35

The Hermès Birkin 35 is arguably the most famous handbag in the world. Created for actress Jane Birkin in 1984, it was conceived as the perfect spacious weekend bag. Its east-west (wider) profile, slightly longer handle drop, and spacious interior make it a benchmark for both luxury and utility. The size 35 is a classic, favored for its ability to hold everything needed for work, travel, or a busy day.

• What it is: A world-renowned luxury handbag with a wide, structured horizontal silhouette, known for its iconic status, scarcity, and craftsmanship.
• Key features: Distinctive east-west (horizontal) orientation, two top handles that can be carried in hand or on the crook of the arm, iconic Sangles straps with the touret lock closure.
• Price: Starts at approximately $12,000 USD at retail (though highly difficult to purchase) and often priced much higher on the resale market.
• Materials/Construction: Impeccably handcrafted by a single artisan from start to finish using premium leathers and hardware, ensuring exceptional durability and quality.
• Sizing/Fit: Measures approximately 14” (L) x 10” (H) x 7” (D) or 35cm x 25cm x 18cm. It's a generously sized luxury bag but can feel quite heavy when fully packed.
• Pros: Unmatched status symbol and proven investment piece. Extremely versatile for travel, work, and everyday use. The wider shape makes finding belongings easy. Resale value is exceptionally strong.
• Cons: A 35 can be heavy and cumbersome, especially for petite frames. Its popularity can make it feel less exclusive to serious collectors. Extremely difficult to purchase directly from an Hermès boutique.

Ideal for those seeking the ultimate recognizable luxury statement piece that is also a practical workhorse for travel or professional settings.

Shop Hermès bags: hermes.com/us/en/category/women/bags-and-small-leather-goods

Hermès HAC vs. Birkin Comparison

Proportions & Shape

This is the most critical difference between the two bags. The Hermès HAC 32 has a distinctively vertical, or north-south silhouette. It's taller than it is wide, reflecting its original purpose of carrying tall items like riding boots. This shape lends it a structured, elegant, and somewhat formal or academic feel.

In contrast, the Birkin 35 features a prominent horizontal, or east-west shape. It is much wider than it is tall, making it look and feel more like a slouchy trapeze holdall. This design makes it easier to access contents quickly and gives it its signature relaxed-yet-luxurious appearance.

Carry & Functionality

How you carry your bag is a major deciding factor here. The HAC was designed with short handles meant for handheld carrying only. The handle drop is not large enough to comfortably fit over the wrist or into the crook of the arm. This makes it a very intentional, "carried" bag.

The Birkin, on the other hand, was purpose-built with utility in mind. Its handles, while still short, are just long enough to slide onto the forearm or be carried in the crook of the elbow. This offers hands-free versatility that the HAC simply does not have, making the Birkin 35 a more practical choice for daily multitasking, commuting, or travel.

Price & Investment Value

Both the HAC and the Birkin are considered "quota bags" at Hermès, meaning they are exceptionally difficult to purchase new and are offered only to established clients. On the resale market, an explosion of demand has driven their prices far above retail. The Birkin is the undisputed champion of handbag investments, with certain colors and leathers appreciating in value year after year.

The HAC also holds its value remarkably well but appeals to a more niche audience of collectors. While a safer investment than nearly any other handbag, it doesn't possess the same mainstream investment frenzy as the Birkin. The better investment is the Birkin, but the HAC provides an entry into the same tier of quality and exclusivity, often for a slightly lower price point on the secondary market for comparable conditions.

Aesthetic & Style

The overall style difference comes down to heritage versus Hollywood. The HAC feels like a piece of history. Its equestrian roots and structured, taller profile give it a stately, classic, and understated appeal. It's for an individual who is more interested in the brand’s legacy than current trends. Celebrities in the know favor it for its discrete nature.

The Birkin 35 is modern luxury personified. It's a statement of success and sophistication that announces itself. Its slouchier shape and connection to Jane Birkin give it a more glamorous, worldly, and effortless chic vibe. It’s the bag seen everywhere from boardrooms to private jets - the ultimate status symbol.

Which One Should You Choose?

Both bags are exceptional achievements in craftsmanship, but they serve different tastes and lifestyles.

Choose the HAC 32 if:

• You appreciate Hermès' deep equestrian history and traditions.
• You prefer a unique, taller bag shape that stands out from the crowd.
• You exclusively carry your bags in your hand and don't need arm-carry functionality.
• You value understated luxury and "insider" pieces over widely recognized icons.

Choose the Birkin 35 if:

• You want the quintessential luxury statement bag that is instantly recognizable.
• You need a versatile work or travel bag that can be carried both by hand and on your arm.
• You prioritize strong investment potential and resale value.
• You prefer a wider, more accessible opening for your daily essentials.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the main difference between a HAC and a Birkin?

The primary difference is the shape and handle length. The HAC is taller and narrower with shorter handles for hand carry only, while the Birkin is wider and shorter with slightly longer handles allowing for arm carry.

Which one is more expensive?

From a retail perspective at a Hermès boutique, their prices are comparable. On the resale market, the Birkin typically commands higher prices due to greater mainstream demand, though an exotic or very rare HAC could be equally or more expensive.

Is the HAC older than the Birkin?

Yes, significantly. The Haut à Courroies was first created around the turn of the 20th century, making it the original design from which the Birkin was later derived in 1984.

Which one holds value better?

Both are Tier 1 investment handbags, but the Birkin is generally considered the stronger investment. Its global recognition and demand are higher, leading to faster appreciation and higher liquidity in the resale market.

Can the flaps be tucked in on both?

Yes, both bags can be carried with the front flap tucked inside for easier access, creating a more open-tote look. This is a very common way to wear a Birkin, and it works equally well with the HAC.

Is a Birkin 35 too big for everyday use?

For many, yes. The Birkin 35 can be quite substantial and heavy for daily errands. Unless you carry a lot (including a laptop or documents), many people gravitate towards the smaller Birkin 30 or 25 for everyday use.

How do I buy a HAC or Birkin from Hermès?

Purchasing either bag directly from an Hermès boutique is extremely difficult. It typically requires building a long-term relationship with a sales associate and having an extensive purchase history with the brand across various product categories.

Which is rarer?

While the Birkin is globally more in-demand, Hermès produces far fewer HACs each year. The HAC is therefore the rarer bag of the two, making it a special find for serious collectors.