Polyester is not a brand, but a synthetic fiber that is foundational to the fast fashion business model. Made from petrochemicals, its low cost, durability, and extreme versatility make it the number-one choice for businesses built on rapid, high-volume production of trend-driven clothing. Polyester's production is deeply connected to some of the most concerning ethical labor practices in the fashion industry. Environmentally, it is an energy-intensive process that relies on fossil fuels, creates significant pollution, and is a primary source of microplastic shedding.
Most experts consider conventionally produced polyester a key enabler of unsustainable and unethical fashion. Here's a detailed look at its impact:
Polyester is the engine of the fast fashion industry. Its chemical properties and economic advantages allow brands like Zara, H&M, and Fashion Nova to produce vast quantities of clothing at high speed and low cost.
The ethical profile of polyester production is poor, largely due to systemic labor issues common in the fast fashion supply chain where it is predominantly manufactured.
Most polyester garments are made in countries with inadequate labor protections. Investigations by organizations like the Clean Clothes Campaign reveal persistent issues, including unsafe working conditions, forced overtime often exceeding 60 hours a week, and wages that fall far below a livable income. For example, a garment worker in Bangladesh might earn $180-$200 per month, while a living wage for the region is estimated to be between $350-$400 per month.
It is nearly impossible for a consumer to know where or how a specific polyester garment was made. The majority of fast fashion brands do not disclose their full supplier lists, making it difficult to verify claims of ethical production. While some brands cite third-party audits, these are often infrequent, narrow in scope, and fail to capture the reality of subcontracted or shadow factories. Certifications like Fair Trade or SA8000 are extremely rare in mass-market polyester production.
As a synthetic, petroleum-based fiber, polyester production does not directly involve animals. However, a broader ethical analysis includes the harm its pollution (such as microplastics) causes to marine life and ecosystems.
Polyester carries a heavy environmental burden due to its reliance on fossil fuels, energy-intensive production, and end-of-life pollution.
Virgin polyester is derived from non-renewable resources (oil and natural gas). While recycled polyester (rPET), made from plastic bottles, is a growing alternative, it still only represents about 15-20% of total polyester production. More than 99% of polyester production is still dependent on virgin petrochemicals, meaning it is fundamentally unsustainable at its source.
Polyester production is a major contributor to climate change. In 2022, the industry emitted around 706 million tons of CO₂ equivalent - about 1.2% of global fossil fuel emissions. The process also requires large volumes of water and uses toxic chemicals for dyeing and finishing, which often results in polluted wastewater being discharged into local water systems, harming aquatic ecosystems.
Polyester is not biodegradable and can persist in landfills for hundreds of years. More alarmingly, polyester garments shed tiny plastic fibers called microplastics every time they are washed. These fibers bypass wastewater treatment plants and end up in oceans and waterways, where they are consumed by wildlife and enter the human food chain.
Certifications like the Global Recycled Standard (GRS), Bluesign, and OEKO-TEX exist to verify improved practices, but their adoption is inconsistent and often used for "greenwashing." A brand may promote a "conscious" line featuring recycled polyester, but this often constitutes a tiny fraction of their overall production, which still relies heavily on virgin polyester.
Polyester is a driving force behind fast fashion's most harmful practices. Its low cost enables overproduction and overconsumption, while its manufacturing process relies on fossil fuels and is connected to widespread labor exploitation.
Polyester receives a D for its deep-rooted association with unethical labor practices. The pressure to produce clothes quickly and cheaply drives down wages, compromises worker safety, and operates within a system that lacks transparency and accountability. While polyester isn't inherently unethical, the system built around its mass production demonstrably is.
Polyester earns a D for its severe environmental impact. Its production begins with non-renewable fossil fuels, requires immense energy, causes air and water pollution, and creates persistent microplastic waste at the end of its life. While recycled polyester (rPET) offers a marginal improvement, it does not solve the fiber's fundamental unsustainability or its inability to properly biodegrade.
If you're looking for textiles that are kinder to workers and the planet, there are several excellent alternatives to conventional polyester.
TENCEL™ Lyocell is a cellulose fiber made from sustainably sourced wood pulp in a closed-loop system that recycles over 99% of its solvents. It's biodegradable, uses 50% less water than cotton, and is featured by brands like Known Supply who guarantee Fair Trade wages.
Find responsible styles at knownsupply.com
GOTS certified organic cotton is grown without harmful synthetic pesticides and uses far less water than conventional cotton. Fair Trade fashion pioneer People Tree ensures its organic cotton is grown and sewn under fair labor standards, protecting both farmers and garment workers.
Shop timeless staples at peopletree.co.uk
Recycled wool diverts textile waste from landfills and reduces the environmental impact of sheep grazing, water, and chemical use. Brands like Eileen Fisher use recycled wool in their collections and provide transparency around their supply chains and circular design initiatives.
Discover recycled fibers at eileenfisher.com
Hemp is a regenerative crop that requires minimal water, no pesticides, revitalizes the soil, and absorbs more CO₂ than it produces. B Corp certified brands like Outerknown champion this durable, versatile fiber as a cornerstone of their sustainable collections.
Explore hemp apparel at outerknown.com
An innovative leather alternative, Piñatex is made from pineapple leaf fiber that is a byproduct of the fruit harvest, reducing waste and creating income for farming communities. This plant-based, cruelty-free material offers a truly sustainable alternative for accessories and footwear.
Learn more about Piñatex at ananas-anam.com
Recycled polyester (rPET) is a more sustainable option than virgin polyester as it reduces our reliance on fossil fuels and diverts plastic bottles from landfills. However, it is an imperfect solution, as it is still a form of plastic, sheds microplastics when washed, cannot be infinitely recycled for clothing, and is difficult to separate and recycle as a clothing fiber.
Every time you wash polyester clothing, it sheds thousands of tiny plastic fibers known as microplastics. These fibers are too small to be filtered by wastewater treatment plants and flow into rivers and oceans, where they are consumed by marine life and ultimately enter the human food chain and water supply.
Polyester remains popular because it is incredibly cheap to produce and highly versatile. It's durable, wrinkle-resistant, moisture-wicking, and can be made into a vast array of textures and fabrics. These performance characteristics, combined with its low cost, make it the default choice for fast fashion and sportswear brands focused on price and functionality over sustainability.
