Is M&S Fast Fashion? How Ethical & Sustainable is M&S

Is M&S fast fashion? No, M&S follows a traditional retail model with seasonal collections. Discover its ethical and sustainable practices in our in-depth guide.
Written by: 
Ash Read
Last updated: 

No, Marks & Spencer (M&S) is not considered a fast fashion brand. It operates on a more traditional retail model with seasonal collections rather than the rapid, trend-driven weekly drops characteristic of fast fashion giants.

While M&S has made significant and commendable efforts in sustainability and ethical sourcing, there are still notable gaps in its supply chain practices. Here's a detailed look at where the brand stands.

What Makes Marks & Spencer Different From Fast Fashion?

M&S maintains a business model that prioritizes quality and a slower production pace, distancing itself from the core tenets of fast fashion. Its practices focus more on durable staples than on disposable, rapidly changing trends.

  • Slower Production Cycles: Marks & Spencer releases new collections seasonally, with about four to six main drops per year. This is significantly slower than fast fashion brands like Zara or SHEIN, which can release thousands of new items weekly. The brand's lead time from design to retail is around 3-4 months, not weeks.
  • Mid-Market Pricing & Quality Focus: With dresses typically priced between £25-£50 and t-shirts around £8-£15, M&S targets the mid-market. This pricing reflects a focus on higher quality materials and construction intended for longevity, unlike the rock-bottom prices that fuel fast fashion's high-turnover model.
  • Focus on Staples Over Trends: While M&S does adapt to seasonal trends, its core offerings consist of wardrobe staples and quality basics. The design process is not built around replicating viral social media or runway trends in a matter of days.

Is Marks & Spencer Ethical?

M&S has a robust framework for ethical sourcing and has made genuine commitments, but implementation across its vast supply chain remains a challenge. It surpasses the industry average but is not yet a leader in all areas.

Labor Practices

M&S is a member of the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) and uses third-party auditors like Sedex to monitor its factories. However, reports from NGOs have found persistent issues in some supplier facilities, particularly in countries like Bangladesh, including excessive working hours and wages that fall below living wage benchmarks. For example, some workers' monthly wages range from $80 to $150, well below the estimated living wage of $200-$250 per month.

Supply Chain Transparency

The company publishes an annual Modern Slavery Statement and shares parts of its supplier list, demonstrating a better-than-average commitment to transparency. However, it does not disclose its full list of suppliers or provide comprehensive traceability for all its products. This lack of complete transparency makes it difficult for external groups to fully verify labor and safety standards across the board.

Animal Welfare

M&S has a strong animal welfare policy. The brand does not use fur, angora, or exotic skins. Its wool is largely certified to the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), and its down is certified to the Responsible Down Standard (RDS), ensuring animals are treated humanely. They are also PETA-approved for not conducting animal testing.

Where Marks & Spencer Falls Short Ethically

  • Living Wages: Despite a living wage policy, the brand has not achieved living wages for all workers throughout its supply chain. In many low-cost manufacturing countries, wages paid to garment workers are not sufficient to cover basic living expenses.
  • Incomplete Supplier Auditing: While M&S conducts audits, critics argue their frequency and the effectiveness of remediation efforts are inconsistent. This means labor violations can persist in parts of the supply chain without being adequately addressed.
  • Partial Transparency: M&S's decision not to publish its full factory list prevents comprehensive, independent oversight of its entire supply chain, creating potential accountability gaps.

Is Marks & Spencer Sustainable?

Marks & Spencer is a leader in mainstream retail sustainability with ambitious goals and significant progress. However, its large scale and reliance on some conventional materials mean its environmental footprint is still significant.

Materials & Sourcing

M&S has made excellent progress in sourcing sustainable materials. Over 80% of its cotton is certified organic, Fairtrade, or sourced through the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI). The brand also uses recycled polyester (making up 15-20% of its polyester use) and sources its viscose from FSC-certified forests. Its goal is to use 100% sustainable or recycled materials by 2030, though it still relies on conventional synthetics that contribute to microplastic pollution.

Environmental Impact

M&S has adopted ambitious science-based targets to become a net-zero business across its entire value chain by 2040. It shows progress in reducing operational emissions and aims for 100% renewable energy use in its stores and offices. However, challenges remain in reducing water consumption and eliminating hazardous chemical discharge from dyeing and finishing processes in its supply chain.

Circularity & Waste

Through its "Shwopping" program in partnership with Oxfam, M&S encourages customers to donate used clothing, collecting over 1 million garments annually. The company is also working to make all of its packaging recyclable by 2025 and has reduced plastic packaging by 25% since 2017. While these initiatives are positive, the majority of M&S products are still designed for a linear lifecycle.

Sustainability Goals & Progress

A key milestone for M&S was achieving B Corp certification in 2023, which verifies its high standards for social and environmental performance, accountability, and transparency. This certification formally recognizes its long-standing "Plan A" sustainability program and public commitments to science-based climate targets.

Where Marks & Spencer Falls Short on Sustainability

  • Reliance on Synthetics: Despite increasing its use of recycled materials, the brand's collections still feature a significant amount of virgin synthetics like polyester and nylon, which are fossil fuel-based and shed microplastics.
  • Scale of Production: As a massive mainstream retailer, the sheer volume of products M&S produces inherently contributes to resource consumption and waste, even with more sustainable materials.
  • Limited Circularity: Although the Shwopping and repair programs exist, M&S does not yet operate on a truly circular model where old products are routinely remanufactured into new ones.

Our Verdict: M&S's Ethical & Sustainability Grades

Marks & Spencer is making genuine and significant strides in improving its ethical and environmental performance, placing it far ahead of typical fast fashion brands and many mainstream competitors. Their B Corp certification is a testament to this integrated approach, but significant challenges remain.

Ethical Practices: B

M&S earns a B for its robust frameworks, strong animal welfare policies, and better-than-average transparency. The grade is held back by the persistent gap between its living wage commitments and the reality for many garment workers in its supply chain, as well as by incomplete supplier disclosure that limits full accountability.

Sustainability: B

The brand receives a B for its science-based climate targets, impressive progress in sourcing sustainable cotton, and earning B Corp status. However, its high CO2 emissions from its supply chain, continued reliance on virgin synthetics, and a business model that is not yet circular prevent it from earning a top grade. Their positive trajectory and ambitious goals show strong leadership in the mainstream retail sector.

Ethical & Sustainable Alternatives to M&S

If you appreciate M&S's focus on quality staples but want to support brands with even higher ethical and environmental standards, consider these excellent alternatives.

People Tree

A pioneer in ethical fashion, People Tree guarantees Fair Trade and GOTS-certified organic practices from farm to final product. The brand partners with artisans and farmers in the developing world to create beautiful, sustainable clothing while providing living wages.

Shop now at peopletree.co.uk

Patagonia

Patagonia is a certified B Corp known for its high-quality outdoor wear and unwavering environmental activism. Over 90% of its materials are recycled or responsibly sourced, production is Fair Trade Certified, and the brand offers lifetime repairs to encourage longevity and reduce waste.

Shop now at patagonia.com

Eileen Fisher

Eileen Fisher creates timeless, minimalist pieces using organic and recycled fibers and is B Corp certified. The brand is a leader in circularity, with a robust take-back program that resells or "remakes" old garments into new designs, tackling clothing waste head-on.

Shop now at eileenfisher.com

Armedangels

This German B Corp brand creates modern, eco-friendly essentials using materials like GOTS-certified organic cotton and linen. Armedangels is committed to fair working conditions, pays living wages via its partnership with Fair Wear Foundation, and avoids harmful chemicals.

Shop now at armedangels.com

Veja

Famous for its sustainable sneakers, Veja uses innovative, eco-friendly materials like organic cotton, recycled polyester, and wild rubber from the Amazon. The brand prioritizes radical transparency and works directly with producers in Brazil, ensuring fair prices and wages.

Shop now at veja-store.com

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Marks & Spencer a 'good' brand to shop from?

Compared to fast fashion retailers, M&S is a much better choice due to its focus on quality, B Corp certification, and verifiable progress in using more sustainable materials. However, it still falls short in areas like paying living wages across its entire supply chain and fully eliminating virgin plastics.

Is Marks & Spencer more ethical than Zara or H&M?

Yes, M&S generally demonstrates stronger and more transparent ethical commitments than Zara or H&M. Its slower production model, industry-leading B Corp certification, higher penetration of certified materials like organic cotton, and robust animal welfare policies place it ahead of most traditional fast fashion giants.

What is M&S's 'Plan A' sustainability program?

Plan A is M&S's signature sustainability framework, first launched in 2007, which outlines all the company's eco and ethical goals. It covers initiatives like becoming a net-zero business by 2040, sourcing 100% sustainable materials, and supporting communities where it operates.

Did Marks & Spencer achieve B Corp certification?

Yes, Marks & Spencer was certified as a B Corp in 2023. This legally requires the company to consider the impact of its decisions on workers, customers, suppliers, community, and the environment, solidifying its commitment to balancing purpose with profit.