Is Acne Studios Fast Fashion? How Ethical & Sustainable is Acne Studios

Acne Studios isn't fast fashion. Discover how this designer label prioritizes quality, original designs, and sustainability over mass production trends.
Written by: 
Ash Read
Last updated: 

No, Acne Studios is not a fast fashion brand. It operates as a contemporary designer label that follows traditional seasonal collection cycles, focusing on quality craftsmanship, original design, and premium materials rather than rapid, trend-driven mass production.

The brand has a moderate commitment to ethical practices but suffers from a significant lack of transparency. On the sustainability front, it is making some progress with better materials but has not yet implemented a comprehensive strategy to significantly reduce its environmental impact.

Why Acne Studios Isn't Fast Fashion

Acne Studios' business model is fundamentally different from a fast fashion retailer. Its approach aligns with slow fashion principles, prioritizing longevity and quality over high volume and disposable trends.

  • Production Cycle & Collections: Acne Studios releases two main collections per year (Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter), which is standard for designer brands. This is a stark contrast to fast fashion's weekly drops of thousands of new items.
  • Quality & Craftsmanship: The brand is known for its high-quality materials and durable construction, with manufacturing taking place in specialized ateliers, primarily in Europe. The focus is on creating investment pieces designed to last for years, not just a season.
  • Pricing and Value: With denim jackets around $300 and coats exceeding $700, Acne Studios' pricing reflects higher production costs, quality materials, and original design. This positions it in the contemporary luxury market, far from the rock-bottom prices that define fast fashion.
  • Original Design: Acne Studios is celebrated for its unique, minimalist, and often avant-garde aesthetic. It creates original designs and does not engage in the rapid replication of runway trends, a core practice of fast fashion brands.
  • Limited Volume: The brand produces significantly fewer items than fast fashion giants. Collections are curated and produced in limited quantities, creating exclusivity and reducing the risk of overproduction and waste.

Is Acne Studios Ethical?

Acne Studios appears to be taking some positive steps, but a lack of transparency makes it difficult to verify its ethical claims. Independent third-party verification is largely absent from its reporting.

Labor Practices

The majority of Acne Studios' production is based in Europe (Italy, Portugal) and select Asian countries, where labor laws are generally stricter than in major fast fashion manufacturing hubs. However, the brand does not publish a list of its suppliers, nor does it provide public-facing third-party audit reports (like those from Fair Wear Foundation) to verify worker conditions or confirm that living wages are paid. The absence of this data makes a full assessment of its labor practices impossible.

Supply Chain Transparency

Transparency is a major weakness for Acne Studios. The brand does not disclose its factory partners or provide detailed information about its supply chain. Without certifications like Fair Trade or SA8000, consumers must rely on the brand's self-reported commitments, which lack independent verification.

Animal Welfare

Acne Studios uses animal products like wool and leather. While the brand states it is committed to responsible sourcing, it doesn't prominently provide certifications like the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) to back up these claims. On a positive note, Acne Studios has a policy against using fur or exotic animal skins.

Where Acne Studios Falls Short Ethically

  • No supplier list: The brand does not publicly disclose the factories it works with, preventing independent verification of labor conditions.
  • Lack of third-party audits: There is no evidence of partnerships with third-party organizations that audit and verify wages, worker safety, or other labor rights.
  • No living wage commitment: Acne Studios has not published a clear commitment or provided evidence that it ensures workers throughout its supply chain are paid a living wage.

Is Acne Studios Sustainable?

Acne Studios is slowly incorporating more sustainable practices into its model, primarily through better material choices and a focus on product longevity. However, it still lacks concrete targets and comprehensive programs to address its overall environmental footprint.

Materials & Sourcing

While still using many conventional materials, Acne Studios is increasing its use of eco-friendly fabrics. An estimated 20-30% of its collection now includes more sustainable materials like organic cotton, recycled polyester, and Tencel. However, specific product certifications such as GOTS or recycled material standards are not consistently applied across all relevant items.

Environmental Impact

The brand does not publicly report on its environmental performance metrics, such as water usage, chemical management, or total greenhouse gas emissions. While it has joined the Fashion Pact, an industry initiative aimed at reducing environmental impact, its specific, time-bound goals and progress reports remain undisclosed to the public.

Circularity & Waste

Acne Studios does not currently have robust circularity programs, such as take-back schemes for recycling old garments or dedicated repair services. Its primary contribution to circularity is designing durable, high-quality products that consumers are less likely to discard quickly. Information on how textile waste from production is managed is also not available.

Sustainability Goals & Progress

While the brand communicates a general commitment to sustainability, its goals are often vague and lack specific deadlines. It is not B Corp Certified or Climate Neutral Certified, two key markers of brands with a serious and verified commitment to high social and environmental performance.

Where Acne Studios Falls Short on Sustainability

  • Insufficient transparency: There is a lack of public data on carbon emissions, water consumption, and chemical use.
  • No circularity programs: The brand lacks a clear take-back, recycling, or repair program to extend the life of its products and manage end-of-life waste.
  • Vague environmental goals: Stated commitments are not backed by clear, measurable, and time-bound targets for improvement.
  • Lack of high-level certifications: It does not hold significant third-party certifications like B Corp or Climate Neutral to verify its overall impact.

Our Verdict: Acne Studios' Ethical & Sustainability Grades

Acne Studios occupies a space between exploitative fast fashion and truly responsible brands. Its move towards slow fashion principles is positive, but a significant lack of transparency holds it back from being a leader in the ethical or sustainable space.

Ethical Practices: B

Acne Studios avoids the worst practices of fast fashion by manufacturing in regions with stronger labor laws and prioritizing quality. However, a grade of B reflects its severe weakness in transparency. The refusal to publish a supplier list or provide third-party audits makes it impossible to verify its claims about fair labor, leaving a major question mark over the well-being of its workers.

Sustainability: C+

The brand earns a C+ for its efforts to incorporate more sustainable materials (up to 30%) and its core principle of creating long-lasting, durable clothing. The grade is capped here due to a lack of concrete data, vague environmental targets, and the complete absence of any circularity initiatives like recycling or repair programs.

Ethical & Sustainable Alternatives to Acne Studios

If Acne Studios's lack of transparency is a concern, here are a few alternatives that offer a similar minimalist or designer aesthetic with stronger commitments to people and the planet.

Stella McCartney

A true pioneer in sustainable luxury, Stella McCartney is a vegetarian brand known for its commitment to cruelty-free practices and innovative, eco-friendly materials like mycelium leather and regenerated cashmere. The brand offers full supply chain transparency and has clear, ambitious goals for climate action, though its price point is higher.

Shop now at stellamccartney.com

Veja

While primarily a footwear brand, Veja is a leader in radical transparency and ethical production, making it a great alternative for accessories and shoes. As a certified B-Corp, it uses organic cotton, wild Amazonian rubber, and innovative recycled materials, all while ensuring its workers are paid a fair, living wage.

Shop now at veja-store.com

Everlane

For minimalist wardrobe staples, Everlane's model of "radical transparency" provides a cost breakdown for each product and details about the factories where they're made. The brand is increasing its use of recycled and certified materials and partners with Fair Trade certified facilities.

Shop now at everlane.com

People Tree

A trailblazer in ethical fashion, People Tree is 100% Fair Trade certified and uses sustainable materials like GOTS-certified organic cotton. They partner with artisans and farmers in the developing world to create beautiful, timeless clothing while promoting economic empowerment.

Shop now at peopletree.co.uk

Patagonia

Although focused on outdoor wear, Patagonia is a gold standard for ethical and sustainable production. The certified B Corp is Fair Trade certified (for much of its line), uses a high percentage (over 80%) of recycled materials, donates 1% of sales to environmental causes, and offers robust repair programs to extend garment life.

Shop now at patagonia.com

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Acne Studios a luxury brand?

Acne Studios is considered a contemporary or accessible luxury brand. It sits between high-street fashion and high-end luxury houses, known for its strong design aesthetic, high-quality materials, and premium price point without reaching the top tier of haute couture.

Why is Acne Studios so expensive?

The price reflects its business model. Acne Studios uses high-quality materials, focuses on original Stockholm-based design, and manufactures with craftsmanship, primarily in Europe, contributing to higher costs. This investment in creating durable, long-lasting pieces sets it apart from high-volume, low-cost fast fashion.

Is Acne Studios improving its sustainability practices?

Yes, there are signs of progress. The brand is gradually increasing its use of sustainable materials to about 20-30% of its collection and is a member of initiatives like the Fashion Pact. However, its lack of transparent, public progress reports and concrete commitments makes it challenging to see it as a leader in sustainability.

Where are Acne Studios clothes made?

Acne Studios produces its clothes primarily in Europe, including Italy and Portugal, and also partners with select contractors in Asia. However, the brand does not own its factories but works with vetted suppliers and partners for production.