Hermès Epsom vs. Swift Leather: Here's how they compare
Choosing a leather from Hermès is a significant decision, and two of the most popular options, Epsom and Swift, offer completely different experiences. Epsom leather is a coated, embossed calfskin known for its firm structure, crosshatch pattern, and exceptional durability, while Swift leather is a soft, supple, natural calfskin with a luxurious feel that develops a beautiful patina over time.
Here's everything you need to know to decide which of these iconic Hermès leathers is the right choice for you.
Hermès Epsom Leather
Epsom leather is the workhorse of the Hermès lineup. It's a man-made, embossed calfskin, meaning the crosshatch grain you see is pressed into the leather. This process creates a rigid, highly structured material that stands up on its own, making it a perfect choice for architectural bags like the Birkin and Kelly that require a crisp silhouette.
- What it is: A coated and embossed calfskin known for its rigid structure and distinctive crosshatch pattern.
- Key features: Matte finish, firm feel, excellent shape retention, and high resistance to scratches and water.
- Price: Premium, often priced similarly to Swift but offers excellent long-term value due to its durability.
- Materials/Construction: The leather is pressed with a grain pattern, which makes it firm and durable.
- Pros: Extremely scratch-resistant and durable. Very easy to clean and maintain. Holds its shape perfectly over years of use. Doesn't show wear easily.
- Cons: Feels stiff and less luxurious to the touch compared to other leathers. It does not develop a patina, so it will look the same in ten years as it does today.
This is the ideal leather for an everyday bag, especially for those who prioritize durability, structure, and low maintenance over a soft hand-feel.
Shop this leather: hermes.com/us/en/category/leather/epsom/
Hermès Swift Leather
Formerly known as Gulliver, Swift is a natural "drummed" calfskin celebrated for its buttery softness and fine, natural grain. It has a supple, almost fluid quality that gives bags a more relaxed and less formal look. Unlike Epsom, Swift is lightweight and absorbent, and it ages beautifully by developing a rich, unique patina.
- What it is: A soft, smooth-grained, and lightweight calfskin leather with a luxurious and supple feel.
- Key features: Fine natural grain, buttery soft texture, lightweight, and develops a patina over time.
- Price: Premium, with costs comparable to Epsom leather depending on the bag style.
- Materials/Construction: Natural, uncoated calfskin that showcases a fine grain and incredible softness.
- Pros: Has an incredibly luxurious and soft feel. It's lightweight and comfortable to carry. Ages beautifully over time, developing a unique character.
- Cons: Much more prone to scratches, scuffs, and water spots. It requires more careful handling and regular maintenance. Can lose its structure over time, leading to a softer or "slouchy" appearance.
Perfect for an enthusiast who values a luxurious hand feel, appreciates materials that show their history, and prefers a more casual, lived-in luxury look.
Shop this leather: hermes.com/us/en/category/leather/swift/
Hermès Epsom vs. Swift Leather Comparison
Durability & Maintenance
There is no contest here: Epsom is the clear winner in terms of durability. Its embossed and coated surface is highly resistant to scratches and water, making it incredibly practical for daily use. A simple wipe with a soft cloth is usually all it needs for cleaning. For this reason, many consider it a worry-free option.
Swift, on the other hand, is much more delicate. Its soft, natural surface can easily scratch and is susceptible to water spots. While minor scratches can often be buffed out, it demands more mindful handling and care. Swift is for someone who understands that signs of wear are part of the leather's journey.
Appearance & Texture
Epsom and Swift occupy opposite ends of the sensory spectrum. Epsom leather has a rigid, structured look with a visible, geometric crosshatch grain and a matte finish. It feels firm and solid to the touch. This structure ensures a bag like a Kelly or Birkin will stand upright and maintain its sharp lines indefinitely.
In contrast, Swift leather is all about softness. It has a very fine, almost invisible natural grain with a gentle sheen. It feels buttery smooth and pliable, giving items a more relaxed and less formal silhouette. Bags made from Swift often appear softer and more inviting.
Shape Retention & Flexibility
Epsom's defining feature is its ability to hold its shape. Its stiffness provides the architectural form for which many Hermès bags are famous. It will not sag, slouch, or lose its crisp silhouette over time, making it ideal for those who love a perfectly structured look.
Swift is much more flexible. While this makes it incredibly comfortable to carry and handle, it also means it is less capable of maintaining a rigid shape. A bag in Swift leather will soften and may develop a gentle slouch with use, contributing to its casual, lived-in charm.
Aging & Patina
Epsom leather does not develop a patina. It's designed to resist change, so a bag will look virtually the same for many years. It is perfect for those who want their luxury item to remain in pristine, out-of-the-box condition.
Swift is known for the beautiful way it ages. With exposure to light, air, and the oils from your hands, it will darken slightly and develop a richer sheen. This patina is highly valued by many collectors, as it tells the unique story of the bag and its owner.
Which One Should You Choose?
Both are exceptional leathers, but they serve different people and different purposes.
Choose Epsom leather if:
- You prioritize durability and need a bag that can withstand daily wear.
- You love a crisp, architectural, and highly structured silhouette that never sags.
- You want a low-maintenance, worry-free leather that is easy to clean.
- You prefer your bag to look box-fresh and pristine for years to come.
Choose Swift leather if:
- You value a luxurious, supple, and buttery soft feel above all else.
- You enjoy the process of leather aging and developing a unique, personal patina.
- You prefer a lighter-weight bag with a more relaxed, gentle silhouette.
- You are careful with your belongings and don't mind performing regular maintenance.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the main difference between Hermès Epsom and Swift leather?
The main difference lies in structure and durability. Epsom is a rigid, embossed leather that is extremely durable and holds its shape perfectly, whereas Swift is a soft, smooth, natural leather that is more delicate but develops a beautiful patina over time.
Is Epsom leather real leather?
Yes, Epsom is 100% real calfskin leather. The "Epsom" name refers to the specific treatment where a crosshatch pattern is machine-pressed onto the surface of the leather to give it structure and durability.
Which leather is more expensive, Epsom or Swift?
The pricing for bags made in Epsom or Swift is generally very similar. Any minor price differences are typically based on the specific bag style rather than a significant upcharge for one leather over the other.
Does Epsom leather scratch easily?
No, Epsom is one of Hermès' most scratch-resistant leathers. Its embossed and coated finish provides excellent protection against everyday scuffs and scrapes, making it a highly practical choice.
Does Swift leather hold its shape?
Swift is a very soft and pliable leather, so it does not hold its shape as rigidly as Epsom. Over time, bags in Swift can soften and develop a more relaxed, "slouchy" appearance, which many owners find appealing.
Which leather is better for a Birkin or Kelly?
This is purely a matter of personal preference. Choose an Epsom Birkin or Kelly for a classic, unyielding architectural shape. Choose one in Swift if you prefer a slightly softer, more casual version that will mold to you over time.
How do you clean Hermès Epsom leather?
Epsom is very easy to clean. For most minor spills or marks, you can simply wipe the surface with a clean, soft, lint-free cloth that is slightly damp.
How do you care for Hermès Swift leather?
Swift requires more delicate care. Keep it away from water, pens, and sharp objects. If it gets wet, gently dab it dry immediately. Minor scratches can sometimes be buffed out by rubbing them with a clean fingertip. Consider professional leather spa services for deeper conditioning.
