Hermès Epsom vs. Chevre: What's the difference?

The core difference between Hermès Epsom and Chevre leathers lies in their structure and finish. Epsom is a rigid, embossed calfskin renowned for its scratch resistance and ability to hold a bag’s shape perfectly, while Chevre is a soft, lightweight goatskin loved for its luxurious feel, fine grain, and the beautiful patina it develops over time.

Here's everything you need to know about these two iconic Hermès materials to choose the right one for your collection.

Hermès Epsom

Hermès Epsom is a popular choice for structured handbags like the Kelly and Birkin, known for its incredible durability and polished look. It’s not a natural grain but rather a pattern heat-pressed into the calfskin leather, creating a uniform, rigid material that is lightweight and highly resistant to daily wear and tear.

• What it is: A heat-pressed, embossed calfskin leather with a fine, cross-hatched grain pattern.
• Key features: Highly scratch-resistant and water-resistant, extremely easy to clean, holds its shape perfectly over time, lightweight.
• Price: Premium luxury pricing, often starting around $10,000 for classic bags. Epsom can sometimes be slightly more expensive due to the complex embossing process.
• Materials/Construction: Embossed calfskin that creates a stiff, durable, and structured finish. Its coated surface protects it from scratches and moisture.
• Pros: Excellent durability and shape retention. Resistant to scratches and water. Easy to wipe clean and maintain. Its structured nature provides a formal, classic look.
• Cons: Lacks the soft, supple feel of other leathers. Can feel stiff to the touch. The embossed pattern may look less "natural" to some enthusiasts compared to grained leathers.

This leather is ideal for anyone who prioritizes a structured silhouette, durability, and a pristine look for years to come.

Shop this product: hermes.com/us/en/category/leather-goods/handbags/epsom/

Hermès Chevre

Hermès Chevre leather is derived from goat hide and is celebrated for its remarkable softness, lightweight feel, and visible, fine grain. This leather is both supple and resilient, offering a more relaxed aesthetic than Epsom while still being durable enough for accessories and handbags.

• What it is: A soft and pliable leather made from goat skin, known for its fine natural grain and slight sheen.
• Key features: Very lightweight and soft, flexible, scratch-resistant due to its texture, develops a beautiful patina over time.
• Price: Sits in a similar luxury price range as Epsom, though occasionally can be slightly less depending on the item.
• Materials/Construction: Made from high-quality goat skin, resulting in a leather that is both supple and durable with a distinctive, slightly lustrous grain.
• Pros: Luxurious and soft to the touch. Lightweight and comfortable to carry. Has a bit of a sheen that beautifully catches the light. The natural grain helps mask minor scratches.
• Cons: Less structured, which means bags can soften or slouch over time. The corners may show wear more readily than on Epsom leather. Not as water-resistant.

This is the leather for those who favor a soft, tactile experience and a relaxed elegance that ages with character.

Shop this product: hermes.com/us/en/category/leather-goods/handbags/chevre/

Hermès Epsom vs. Chevre Comparison

Style & Aesthetic

The choice between Epsom and Chevre often comes down to personal style. Epsom offers a formal, sharp, and architectural aesthetic. Its stiff nature perfectly maintains the clean lines and iconic silhouettes of bags like the Kelly and Birkin, resulting in a polished and perpetually “new” look.

In contrast, Chevre provides a softer, more relaxed elegance. Its subtle sheen and fine grain give it a luxurious depth, while its flexibility results in a less rigid silhouette. Bags made from Chevre feel more casual and approachable, molding slightly to the wearer over time.

Durability & Aging

Epsom is a champion of durability. Its embossed, coated surface is highly resistant to scratches and can be easily wiped clean if it gets wet, making it an excellent choice for an everyday bag. It is specifically designed to resist wear and maintain its original appearance without developing a patina.

Chevre is also surprisingly resilient. While it's a softer leather, its natural grain is effective at hiding minor scratches, and it's known for being quite tough. Unlike Epsom, Chevre is intended to age. Over time, it will soften even more and develop a distinct patina, adding character and uniqueness to the piece.

Structure & Feel

When it comes to feel, the two leathers are complete opposites. Epsom is firm, rigid, and has a dry matte texture. A bag made from Epsom leather will stand up on its own and will never lose its structured shape. It is also remarkably lightweight for its rigidity.

Chevre is soft, supple, and has a slight velvety feel. It’s incredibly pliable and lightweight, making it very comfortable to handle and carry. This flexibility means a larger bag made from Chevre might slouch slightly, offering a more organic shape compared to the unyielding structure of Epsom.

Price & Value

Both Epsom and Chevre are premium materials used in Hermès’s most coveted pieces, placing them in the highest price tiers. The final cost depends more on the bag style, size, and hardware than on the leather type alone, and their prices are often very comparable. Both leathers hold their value exceptionally well on the resale market. Epsom’s continued popularity is due to its ability to look new for years, while Chevre is sought after by collectors who appreciate its luxurious feel and graceful aging process.

Which One Should You Choose?

Your choice depends entirely on whether you prefer structure and resilience or softness and character.

Choose Epsom if:

• You want a bag that will maintain its precise, structured shape forever.
• You prioritize scratch and water resistance for peace of mind during daily use.
• You prefer a formal, polished aesthetic that always looks box-fresh.
• You value low-maintenance leather that's easy to wipe clean.

Choose Chevre if:

• You love a soft, luxurious leather with a supple and lightweight feel.
• You prefer a more relaxed silhouette that isn't perfectly rigid.
• You appreciate when a bag develops a unique patina and character over time.
• You want a material with a subtle sheen and visible natural grain.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the main difference between Hermès Epsom and Chevre?

The main difference is structure versus softness. Epsom is a rigid, embossed calfskin that holds its shape perfectly and is scratch-resistant. Chevre is a soft, pliable goatskin that is lightweight and develops a patina as it ages.

Which Hermès leather is more durable, Epsom or Chevre?

This depends on your definition of durable. Epsom is more resistant to scratches, water, and staining, looking new for longer. Chevre is considered very resilient and tough for a soft leather, but it will show wear on major pressure points like corners more than Epsom.

Does Epsom leather look cheap?

No, Epsom leather is considered a refined and luxurious material. Its lack of a soft, natural grain is a stylistic choice that provides a clean, modern, and structured appearance, which is highly valued by many fans of the brand.

Does Chevre leather scratch easily?

While softer than Epsom, Chevre is known to be quite scratch-resistant. Its natural, fine grain helps to camouflage minor scuffs and marks effectively, making it a practical choice despite its luxe feel.

Which is better for a Birkin or Kelly bag?

Both are excellent choices. Epsom is the classic choice if you want the quintessential structured look that these bags are famous for. Chevre is less common for the exterior of these bags but is highly sought after for creating a slightly less rigid, more lightweight version that feels incredibly luxurious.

Which leather holds its value better?

Both Epsom and Chevre leathers hold their value remarkably well, as they are used on investment-level Hermès bags. Epsom often has a slight edge on the resale market because it maintains its original condition so well, which appeals to a broad range of buyers.

Is Hermès Chevre real leather?

Yes, absolutely. Chevre is a premium leather prized by Hermès, made from high-quality goat skin.

How do you care for Epsom and Chevre leather?

For Epsom, maintenance is simple: wipe it with a soft, dry cloth. Due to its water resistance, you can gently wipe away minor spills. For Chevre, a bit more care is needed, avoid water and grease, and use a dry microfiber cloth for dusting. For any serious cleaning or conditioning, both leathers should be taken to an official Hermès spa.