Hermès Sellier vs. Retourne: What's the difference?

The key difference between Hermès Sellier and Retourne construction is all about structure and stitching. Sellier bags have visible exterior stitching and a rigid, architectural shape that stands on its own. Retourne, which means "turned," features piping and is stitched on the inside and then turned out, creating softer corners, a slouchier silhouette, and a more relaxed feel.

Here's a detailed comparison to help you decide which iconic Hermès construction fits your personal style.

Hermès Sellier

The Sellier construction is a nod to Hermès's origins in saddle-making, defined by its sharp lines and formal structure. This method creates a very classic, tailored handbag where the exterior stitching is not just functional but a key design element. The leather is treated to be more rigid, ensuring the bag holds its shape perfectly whether you set it down or carry it.

• What it is: A handbag construction method featuring exposed, sharp edges and visible saddle stitching on the exterior of the bag.
• Key features: Stiff, structured silhouette, visible, precise exterior stitching, sharp, defined corners, a formal, architectural look. The edges are finished with a resin coating.
• Price: Tends to be slightly more expensive due to the more labor-intensive stitching process required for its external finish. A Kelly Sellier 28 is approximately $10,000 - $12,000 USD.
• Materials/Construction: Often made with firmer leathers like Epsom or Box Calf to maintain its rigid structure. The construction is focused on durability and shape retention.
• Pros: Maintains its shape perfectly over time, has a very polished and formal appearance, showcases the iconic Hermès craftsmanship through visible stitching, edges are exceptionally durable.
• Cons: A more formal look may feel less versatile for casual use, the rigid structure offers less give, and protruding corners can be more susceptible to showing wear or scuffing.

This construction is for someone who appreciates a traditional, highly structured aesthetic and a formal bag that consistently presents a polished, put-together appearance.

Shop this product: https://www.hermes.com/us/en/women/bags

Hermès Retourne

The Retourne construction offers a softer, more understated approach to luxury. After the bag is stitched together inside out, it is inverted, which rolls and softens the seams, creating a relaxed and supple silhouette. This results in rounded corners and a slight slouch, giving the bag a more casual elegance that molds to the wearer over time.

• What it is: A handbag construction method where the bag is stitched from the inside and then turned right-side-out, hiding the stitches and creating soft edges.
• Key features: Soft, slightly slouchy silhouette, invisible exterior stitching, rounded, gentle corners thanks to leather piping, a more relaxed and casual feel.
• Price: Often slightly less expensive than its Sellier counterpart, although still a significant investment. A Kelly Retourne 28 runs approximately $9,500 - $11,500 USD.
• Materials/Construction: Typically crafted using more pliable leathers like Togo or Clemence, which contribute to the bag’s softer shape and drape.
• Pros: More versatile for everyday and casual wear, comfortable to carry as it can conform to the body, corners are more protected from wear due to the rounded design, appears more understated.
• Cons: Loses its structured shape over time and will develop a more pronounced slouch, holds slightly less inside due to the turned-in seams, can look less formal than a Sellier bag.

This construction is ideal for those who prefer a more relaxed, versatile bag that exudes effortless sophistication and prizes comfort and softness over rigid structure.

Shop this product: https://www.hermes.com/us/en/women/bags

Hermès Sellier vs. Retourne Comparison

Structure & Aesthetic

The most immediate difference is visual and tactile. A Sellier bag is architectural. It features sharp, defined corners and a rigid frame that stands tall and proud, making it feel very formal and classic. Its shape is non-negotiable and provides a very structured look that is perfect for professional settings or elegant events.

Conversely, a Retourne bag is much more fluid. The process of turning the bag right-side-out creates soft, rounded corners and a more supple body. It has a distinctive relaxed slouch that makes it feel more approachable and casual. While still incredibly luxurious, its aesthetic is one of understated, everyday elegance rather than formal grandeur. Over time, the Retourne's slouchiness will become more pronounced, giving it a unique, lived-in character.

Quality & Materials

Both constructions are made with the same legendary Hermès quality, but the choice of leather is often tied to the style. Sellier construction pairs best with firm leathers that hold a rigid shape, like Epsom, Chèvre, or Box Calf. These leathers are known for their resilience against scratching and their ability to maintain structure.

Retourne construction requires soft, pliable leather that can be easily turned and has a natural drape. Togo and Clemence are the most common choices for Retourne bags like the Kelly or Birkin. These leathers are appreciated for their softness, grain, and how they develop character with use.

Price & Value

While both are top-tier luxury items, Sellier bags often carry a slightly higher price tag. This premium is due to the demanding craftsmanship involved in creating perfect, visible exterior stitching and perfectly finished resined edges. The process requires a very high level of precision, as any flaw would be immediately visible.

Both styles hold their value exceptionally well on the resale market. However, the desirability of one over the other can fluctuate with fashion trends. The structured look of the Sellier has made it particularly sought-after in recent years, sometimes giving it a slight edge in resale value depending on the model and condition.

Wear & Durability

Both are built to last a lifetime, but they show age differently. The Sellier's crisp corners are its most beautiful feature, but also its most vulnerable point. These sharp edges can be more prone to scuffs and wear over time. However, the firm leathers typically used are often scratch-resistant.

A Retourne bag, with its rounded corners created by internal leather piping, is more forgiving of bumps and daily use. The corners are naturally more protected. Because it's designed to be soft, the developing slouch and softening of the leather are seen as part of its charm, not as signs of wear. Heavy use will simply enhance its relaxed character.

Which One Should You Choose?

The choice between these two masterpiece constructions really comes down to your lifestyle and personal aesthetic.

Choose Sellier if:

• You prefer a formal, structured, and architectural handbag.
• You want a bag that stands up on its own and never loses its shape.
• You appreciate visible, precise craftsmanship and stitches as a design detail.
• Your style is more classic, polished, and professional.
• You plan to use the bag primarily for work, events, or more formal occasions.

Choose Retourne if:

• You want a more versatile, everyday bag with a relaxed and casual elegance.
• You prefer soft, supple bags that are comfortable to carry.
• You don't mind a slouchy look and appreciate how it develops over time.
• Your style is more understated, effortless, and easygoing.
• You need a dependable luxury bag that can transition from errands to dinner.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the main difference between Hermès Sellier and Retourne?

The primary difference is the stitching and resulting structure. Sellier bags have visible stitching on the outside, creating sharp edges and a rigid, formal silhouette. Retourne bags are stitched internally and turned out, hiding the seams and creating soft, rounded corners and a relaxed, slouchy body.

Which style is more expensive?

Generally, Sellier construction models are slightly more expensive than their Retourne counterparts. The price difference reflects the highly precise and time-consuming labor required for the visible exterior stitching.

Which construction is more durable?

Both are exceptionally durable. However, they wear differently. The hard corners on a Sellier bag can be more susceptible to scuffs, while the softer, piped corners on a Retourne bag are better protected from everyday bumps. The choice really depends on what type of wear you anticipate.

Does a Sellier bag feel different from a Retourne bag?

Yes. A Sellier bag feels firm and structured in your hands and stands rigidly on its own. A Retourne bag feels softer and more pliable, and it will often slightly conform to your body when carried.

Which one is better for everyday use?

For most people, the Retourne style is better suited for everyday use. Its relaxed silhouette, softer leather, and more protected corners make it a more practical and fuss-free option for daily activities.

How can you tell the difference between Sellier and Retourne?

The easiest way is to look at the edges and seams. If you can see the artisan's stitching along the exterior edges of the bag and the corners are sharp, it's a Sellier. If the edges are soft with a visible piping line and the stitching is hidden, it's a Retourne.

Do both styles come in the same leathers?

While some overlap exists, certain leathers are better suited for each style. Rigid leathers like Epsom and Box Calf are more common for Sellier, while supple leathers like Togo and Clemence are preferred for Retourne.

Which Hermès style holds its value better?

Both Sellier and Retourne styles have an incredible resale value. Historically, desirability can shift based on trends. Currently, the structured Sellier look is in high demand, but both are considered excellent investments that typically appreciate in value over time.