Hermès Permabrass vs. Gold: What's the difference?

The choice between Hermès Permabrass and Gold hardware often comes down to durability versus intrinsic value. Permabrass is a proprietary Hermès alloy designed to look like gold but offers superior resistance to scratches and tarnishing, making it a practical choice for everyday use. Gold, on the other hand, is a precious metal (typically 18k) valued for its prestigious feel, investment value, and authentic rich color, though it requires more careful handling.

Here is a complete guide to help you decide which material is best for your lifestyle and your next Hermès purchase.

About Hermès Permabrass Hardware

Permabrass is an exclusive brass alloy developed by Hermès as a high-quality, durable alternative to precious metal hardware. It is specifically formulated to mimic the warm, classic appearance of gold while being far more resistant to the rigors of daily wear. You'll commonly find it used on bags, charms, and other accessories where functionality and longevity are just as important as appearance.

• What it is: A proprietary, gold-toned brass alloy treated for enhanced durability and tarnish resistance.
• Key features: Highly resistant to scratching and tarnishing, maintains its shine with minimal maintenance, provides a consistent and polished gold look.
• Price: More affordable than gold, allowing for a lower overall price point on items featuring this hardware.
• Materials/Construction: A specially formulated brass alloy created and used exclusively by Hermès.
• Pros: Excellent durability for everyday use, highly resistant to scratches, requires minimal care to maintain its look, more budget-friendly.
• Cons: Is not a precious metal, lacks the intrinsic and resale value of real gold, may have a very subtle color difference compared to 18k gold.

This hardware is an excellent option for anyone who plans to use their Hermès piece regularly and prioritizes long-lasting appearance and ease of care over the investment appeal of precious metals.

Shop Hermès accessories: hermes.com/us/en/category/women/accessories/

About Hermès Gold Hardware

Hermès Gold hardware represents the pinnacle of luxury, crafted from precious 18-karat gold in yellow, rose, or white tones. This option is chosen for its undeniable prestige, its substantial weight and feel, and its inherent value as a precious metal. It is most often featured on high-end jewelry, special order bags, and exclusive collections where the emphasis is on pure luxury and investment quality.

• What it is: Hardware crafted from solid or plated 18k gold, a precious metal associated with high value and luxury.
• Key features: Authentic rich, warm color and luster, significant intrinsic value, and a weightier, more substantial feel.
• Price: A premium option that significantly increases the price of the item it adorns.
• Materials/Construction: 18-karat gold (yellow, white, or rose).
• Pros: A real precious metal with high intrinsic and resale value, considered a worthwhile investment, offers an authentic luxurious appearance, holds high prestige among collectors.
• Cons: A softer metal that is more susceptible to scratching and dings, can tarnish over time and may require professional polishing, significantly more expensive.

Gold hardware is for the collector or buyer who values the prestige of owning a precious metal, sees their purchase as a long-term investment, and is willing to provide the necessary care to maintain it.

Shop Hermès fine jewelry: hermes.com/us/en/category/women/watches-and-jewelry/

Permabrass vs. Gold: A Side-by-Side Comparison

Material Composition & Value

The most fundamental difference is what they're made of. Permabrass is a functional, beautiful brass alloy valued for its performance. Its purpose is to look like gold while being tough enough for daily use.

Gold, in contrast, is an 18k precious metal. Its value isn't just in its appearance but in its very nature. As a precious metal, it carries a high market price and is widely seen as an investment, often contributing to the item's appreciation in value over time.

Appearance & Color

To the untrained eye, Permabrass and Gold can look very similar. They both have a warm, polished, yellow-toned finish. However, enthusiasts can sometimes spot a subtle difference in the color depth and luster. Real gold tends to have a slightly richer, warmer hue that's hard to replicate perfectly. Permabrass has a bright and consistent shine, but it may not catch the light in the exact same nuanced way as solid gold.

Durability & Maintenance

This is where Permabrass truly shines. It was engineered to resist scratches, scuffs, and tarnishing. For hardware on a bag that is frequently handled, this resilience is a major advantage. It typically only needs a simple wipe with a soft cloth to stay looking new.

Gold is a much softer metal. It is prone to fine hairline scratches from regular contact and can dent more easily if struck. Over time, it can also tarnish, requiring gentle professional polishing to restore its original high-shine luster. This calls for more conscious handling and periodic maintenance.

Price & Investment

The price gap between the two hardware options is considerable. Items with gold hardware carry a much higher price tag due to the material cost alone. That cost, however, is directly tied to its investment potential. A piece with solid gold hardware will almost always command a higher resale price than its Permabrass counterpart, making it a better choice for those focused on value retention.

Permabrass keeps pieces more accessible. It offers the full Hermès luxury experience and aesthetic without the premium cost associated with precious metals. It's a choice for enjoying the luxury item for its intended use, not necessarily as a financial asset.

Which One Should You Choose?

Both are excellent choices made to the highest Hermès standards, but they cater to very different priorities.

Choose Permabrass if:

• You plan to use your accessory or bag frequently and need hardware that can withstand daily activities.
• You prioritize a low-maintenance option and don't want to worry about every minor scratch or tarnish.
• Your budget is a consideration, and you prefer the more accessible price point.
• You value functional durability and classic appearance over intrinsic material value.

Choose Gold if:

• You are a collector or purchasing the item as a long-term investment.
• You prioritize the prestige, feel, and authentic luster of a precious metal.
• The higher price is not a barrier for you.
• You are comfortable with and prepared for the diligent care required to maintain soft metals.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the main difference between Hermès Permabrass and Gold?

The primary difference is the material. Permabrass is a strong brass alloy designed to look like gold, while Gold is the actual 18k precious metal. This affects their durability, price, and investment value.

Is Permabrass real gold?

No, Permabrass is not real gold. It is a high-quality brass alloy created by Hermès to offer a similar appearance with enhanced strength.

Which is more durable, Permabrass or Gold?

Permabrass is significantly more durable. It is highly resistant to scratches, tarnishing, and fading, making it ideal for items that see frequent use, like a handbag's closure.

Does Hermès Permabrass hardware tarnish?

Permabrass is engineered to be highly tarnish-resistant. While any metal can theoretically change over very long periods with heavy exposure, it is designed to maintain its shine with minimal upkeep for years.

How can I tell the difference between Permabrass and gold hardware?

While subtle, there are differences. Gold may have a slightly warmer, deeper color and a heavier feel. Gold hardware may also have small hallmarks indicating its karat weight, which Permabrass will not.

Why is Permabrass cheaper than gold hardware?

The price difference is due to the raw materials. Brass is a common industrial metal, whereas gold is a rare, precious metal with a high market value dictated by weight.

Which hardware has better resale value?

Items with gold hardware almost always have a better resale value. The intrinsic value of the precious metal contributes directly to its worth in the secondary market.

Is Permabrass good quality?

Yes, absolutely. It is a specific, high-quality material developed by Hermès to meet their exacting standards for luxury goods. Its quality lies in its appearance and longevity.

Which hardware should I choose for an everyday bag?

For an everyday bag like a Kelly or Birkin that will endure regular handling, opening, and closing, Permabrass is a highly practical and recommended choice due to its superior scratch resistance and minimal upkeep.