Hermès Novillo vs. Togo: What's the difference?

The main difference between Hermès Novillo and Togo leather comes down to texture and durability. Novillo is a smooth, high-gloss calfskin with a polished, delicate finish that is prone to scratching, while Togo is a textured, pebbled calfskin known for its resilience and scratch resistance. Choosing between them is a trade-off between Novillo’s sleek elegance and Togo’s rugged, everyday practicality.

Here’s everything you need to know to decide which leather is the right choice for your lifestyle and next handbag.

Hermès Novillo Leather

Novillo is a pressed calfskin leather prized for its fine grain, semi-glossy finish, and exceptionally soft, supple feel. It has a lightweight and elegant character that gives bags like the Birkin or Kelly a more formal and refined appearance. Due to its very smooth surface, it shows color richly and vividly but is also more susceptible to scratches and scuffs than more textured leathers.

• What it is: A smooth, semi-polished calfskin leather with a very fine grain.
• Key features: Sleek appearance, vibrant color absorption, soft and lightweight feel.
• Price: Premium, pricing is comparable to other popular Hermès leathers.
• Durability and Maintenance: More delicate and prone to scratches, requires careful handling to avoid marks and should be protected from moisture.
• Appearance Over Time: Maintains its polished look with proper care but will visibly show signs of wear and tear more easily than textured leathers.
• Pros: Possesses a sophisticated and dressy look, feels incredibly soft and luxurious to the touch, and showcases color beautifully.
• Cons: Scratches and scuffs are common, making it less suitable for everyday or heavy use, requires conscious handling to maintain its pristine look.

This leather is perfect for those who want a formal, elegant handbag for special occasions or for meticulous owners who don't mind the extra care required.

Hermès Togo Leather

Since its introduction in 1997, Togo has become one of Hermès's most popular leathers, and for good reason. Sourced from calfskin, Togo has a distinct pebbled or grained texture that is both visually appealing and incredibly resilient. This texture makes it highly resistant to scratches and helps it hide minor marks, making it a workhorse leather for handbags intended for daily use.

• What it is: A grained, textured calfskin leather with a matte finish.
• Key features: Pronounced pebbled grain, excellent durability, scratch resistance, and a relatively firm structure.
• Price: Premium. Like Novillo, its price is in line with other standard Hermès leathers.
• Durability and Maintenance: Very durable and low-maintenance. The textured surface forgives minor scuffs, making maintenance simple.
• Appearance Over Time: Softens beautifully with wear, developing a subtler texture over the years while maintaining its shape. It ages gracefully, with many owners appreciating its character as it breaks in.
• Pros: Extremely practical and durable for daily wear, highly resistant to scratches, hides wear well, and gains character over time.
• Cons: Has a more casual look compared to Novillo, can feel stiff when brand-new.

An ideal choice for a frequently used bag, this leather suits individuals prioritizing durability and effortless maintenance without sacrificing luxury.

Hermès Novillo vs. Togo Comparison

Texture & Appearance

The most immediate difference is visual and tactile. Novillo leather is smooth and displays a subtle sheen, which gives bags a sophisticated, dressy appearance. Its fine grain makes it look sleek and uniform from a distance.

In contrast, Togo leather is defined by its textured, pebbled surface. This grain gives it a more casual, relaxed feel with a matte finish. While both are markers of quality, their aesthetic is distinct: Novillo leans formal, while Togo leans toward everyday elegance.

Durability & Maintenance

Togo is the clear winner in terms of durability. Its grained texture naturally camouflages minor scuffs and scratches from daily bumps, keys, or nails, making it a worry-free option for frequent use. It’s also relatively easy to clean and holds up well against the elements.

Novillo is considerably more delicate. Its smooth surface provides no place for scrapes to hide, making every mark noticeable. Owners of Novillo bags must be more intentional with handling, storage, and avoiding abrasive surfaces. While marks can sometimes be professionally buffed out, prevention is key.

Feel & Flexibility

From the first touch, Novillo feels softer and more pliable. It's a lightweight leather that molds well and has a gentle, luxurious feel. Bags made with Novillo often feel less rigid from the start.

Togo feels thicker and more structured, especially when new. It provides a sturdiness that helps bags like the Kelly or Birkin maintain their iconic shape over many years. Though it can be stiff at first, it softens considerably with use, becoming more flexible without losing its form.

Appearance Over Time

The aging process differs significantly between the two. A Togo bag ages like a classic leather jacket - it gets better with time. The leather softens, the grain becomes slightly less pronounced, and it can develop a beautiful character that owners cherish. Scratches often blend into its textured surface.

A Novillo bag aims to maintain its pristine, store-fresh look for as long as possible. Showing wear more easily, its aesthetic is more about preserving perfection rather than developing patina. Signs of use on Novillo leather look more like blemishes than character marks.

Which One Should You Choose?

Both leathers represent the pinnacle of Hermès quality, but they cater to very different needs and priorities.

Choose Novillo Leather if:

• You prefer a polished, dressy, and elegant handbag aesthetic.
• The bag will be used for special occasions or in a careful, rotating collection.
• You value a soft, supple, and lightweight feel right from the start.
• You dislike a pronounced grainy texture and prefer a smooth surface.

Choose Togo Leather if:

• You need a resilient, low-maintenance handbag for everyday or frequent use.
• You want a bag that you don't need to "baby" or constantly worry about scratching.
• You like the look of pebbled leather and its slightly more casual vibe.
• You appreciate the way leather ages, softens, and develops more character over time.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the main difference between Novillo and Togo leather?

The key differences are texture and durability. Novillo is smooth, polished, and susceptible to scratches, giving it a more formal appearance. Togo is pebbled, matte, and highly scratch-resistant, making it ideal for daily use.

Which leather scratches more easily, Novillo or Togo?

Novillo leather scratches much more easily. Its smooth surface means there is nowhere for marks to hide, while Togo's textured grain provides natural camouflage against minor scuffs and scrapes.

Is Togo leather heavy?

Togo is considered a medium-weight leather. While it's slightly heavier and denser than Novillo due to its thickness and grain, it's not known for being overly heavy compared to other durable leathers. A large bag like a Birkin 35 in Togo will have some heft.

Does Togo leather soften over time?

Yes, one of the most loved characteristics of Togo is that it softens beautifully with use. While it starts out relatively stiff and structured, it will become more pliable and relaxed over the years without losing the bag's essential shape.

Which leather is better for a Birkin or Kelly?

Neither is definitively "better," as both are classic choices for these iconic bags. The best choice depends entirely on your lifestyle. Choose Togo if the bag will be your daily companion. Choose Novillo if it's meant for nicer occasions or you are very careful with your belongings.

How do I care for Novillo leather?

Care for Novillo involves prevention. Keep it away from rain and moisture, avoid contact with sharp objects and abrasive surfaces, and store it properly in its dust bag. For minor smudges, use a soft, dry cloth. For significant marks, consult a leather care professional.

Which Hermès leather is more popular?

Togo is one of Hermès's most consistently popular leathers due to its fantastic durability and ease of care. Its reputation as a user-friendly workhorse makes it a top choice for practical luxury lovers and first-time Hermès buyers.

Does Novillo leather stretch?

Novillo is a supple leather, but it's not overly prone to stretching and is known to hold a bag's shape well. Like most leathers, it can stretch if consistently overstuffed, but under normal use, it retains its structure effectively.