Hermès Kelly Retourne vs. Sellier: What's the difference?

The Hermès Kelly Retourne and Sellier are distinguished by their construction: the Retourne is stitched on the outside and then turned inside out, creating a softer, more relaxed silhouette, while the Sellier is stitched on the inside, resulting in sharp, rigid, and defined edges. This single difference in craftsmanship creates two entirely distinct aesthetics for one of the world's most iconic handbags.

Here's everything you need to know to decide which iconic Hermès Kelly construction is right for your collection and lifestyle.

Hermès Kelly Retourne

The Kelly Retourne is the softer, more pliable version of the legendary handbag. Its name "retourne," meaning "turned over," refers to its unique construction process where the artisan assembles the bag and then turns it inside out. This technique hides the sharp stitching and gives the bag its signature soft corners and relaxed, slightly slouchy posture, offering a more casual and understated approach to luxury.

• What it is: A version of the Hermès Kelly bag crafted for a relaxed, supple silhouette with soft edges and visible piping.
• Key features: Soft, pliable structure, relaxed corners, more forgiving shape that can feel more comfortable against the body.
• Price: Starts around $10,000, varying widely based on size, leather, and specific configuration.
• Construction: The bag is stitched on the exterior and then turned inside out, resulting in rounded edges defined by piping rather than sharp seams.
• Pros: Casual and less formal vibe suitable for everyday wear. More comfortable to carry. Develops a beautiful, unique patina and character with use.
• Cons: Softer structure means it can lose its shape or sag over time if not stored properly. The rounded corners may show wear more easily.

The Retourne is perfect for the individual who values a more understated, approachable luxury piece that molds to their lifestyle and gains character with age.

Shop this product: hermes.com/us/en/category/women/bags-and-small-leather-goods

Hermès Kelly Sellier

The Kelly Sellier represents the original, architectural vision of the Kelly bag. Its exterior stitching is precise and visible, creating a crisp, rigid, and highly structured form that is immediately recognizable. "Sellier," meaning "saddler," pays homage to Hermès' equestrian origins and the sharp, functional craftsmanship of saddle making. This style is often seen as the more formal and classic of the two.

• What it is: A highly structured and rigid version of the Hermès Kelly with sharp corners and visible, resin-coated exterior stitching.
• Key features: Stiff, architectural silhouette, defined, sharp edges, retains its shape perfectly over years.
• Price: Similarly priced to the Retourne, starting at approximately $10,000 and increasing with specifications.
• Construction: The stitching is done on the exterior of the bag and is sealed with resin for a clean, sharp finish, ensuring the bag holds its geometric shape.
• Pros: A timelessly elegant and formal appearance. Maintains its pristine shape indefinitely. It is very durable because of its rigid construction.
• Cons: The stiff structure can feel less comfortable to carry against the body. Its sharp corners can be prone to scuffing on impact. The rigid shape is less forgiving if you try to overfill it.

The Sellier embodies a polished, sophisticated aesthetic for those who prefer a handbag that is both a statement piece and a testament to formal elegance.

Shop this product: hermes.com/us/en/category/women/bags-and-small-leather-goods

Hermès Kelly Retourne vs. Sellier Comparison

Construction & Outlook

The fundamental difference lies in the seams. A Kelly Retourne is constructed "wrong-side" out and then turned right-side out, meaning the structural stitches are internal. The edges are soft and defined by piping. This creates a flexible, pliable bag that softens over time.

Conversely, the Kelly Sellier is assembled with its stitches facing outward. Each stitch is visible, precise, and sealed with a polished resin, creating a sharp, boxy, and architectural silhouette. The Sellier is designed to be rigid and maintains this structure throughout its life.

Aesthetic & Formality

Each construction style lends itself to a different occasion. The Kelly Retourne has a distinctly casual, relaxed personality. Its softer lines and less rigid form make it a perfect companion for daily errands, casual lunches, or travel. Over time, it develops a slouch that many collectors find charming and personal.

The Kelly Sellier is undeniably more formal. Its sharp silhouette and unyielding structure command attention and project an air of sophistication and elegance. This makes it an ideal choice for business settings, evening events, and formal occasions where a polished look is paramount.

Recommended Leathers & How They Wear

Hermès often reserves specific leathers for each style based on their natural properties. The Retourne style works beautifully with supple, pliable leathers like Togo and Clemence, which enhance its soft nature and contribute to its graceful aging.

The Sellier style requires rigid leathers that can hold their crisp shape. Structured leathers like Epsom and Box Calf are classics for the Sellier, ensuring the bag's architectural integrity remains intact for decades. While both bags are exceptionally durable, the Sellier's resin-coated edges can be more susceptible to showing damage if knocked sharply against a surface, whereas the Retourne's softer corners can be more forgiving.

Price & Value

While the craftsmanship for each is equally intensive, there is generally no significant price difference between a new Retourne and Sellier in the same size and leather. Both are considered outstanding investments in the world of luxury goods, holding or appreciating in value over time. Secondary market preferences can shift, but the Sellier is often seen as the quintessential "classic Kelly," which can sometimes give it a slight edge in resale depending on trends.

Which One Should You Choose?

Your choice depends entirely on your personal style and how you intend to use your Kelly.

Choose the Kelly Retourne if:

• You prefer a softer, more relaxed and less formal handbag.
• Your personal style is more casual, bohemian, or understatedly chic.
• You value comfort and want a bag that feels pliable against your body.
• You appreciate a bag that develops a unique patina and character with use and age.

Choose the Kelly Sellier if:

• You need a highly structured, formal bag for professional or elegant occasions.
• Your aesthetic leans towards classic, polished, and sophisticated looks.
• You prioritize a bag that maintains its exact architectural shape forever.
• You see your bag as a sharp, statement piece that completes a formal outfit.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the main difference between a Kelly Retourne and a Sellier?

The core difference is the construction. A Retourne is stitched and then turned inside-out, creating a soft, relaxed bag. A Sellier is stitched with the seams outward and sealed with resin, creating a rigid, structured bag with sharp edges.

Which Hermès Kelly style is more expensive?

At the boutique level, a Kelly Retourne and Kelly Sellier of the same size and material are priced almost identically. Price differences primarily arise from the type of leather, hardware, and size, not the construction style.

Does one style look bigger than the other in the same size?

Yes, often a Kelly Sellier can appear slightly larger and more "present" than a Retourne of the same size. Its rigid walls and sharp corners create a more defined and larger-looking footprint.

Which is better for everyday use?

Most people prefer the Kelly Retourne for everyday use. Its softer body is more comfortable to carry, its shape is a bit more forgiving, and its overall aesthetic is more casual for daily activities.

Do they come in different leathers?

Yes. Soft, supple leathers like Togo or Clemence are commonly used for the Retourne style to enhance its slouchy nature. Rigid leathers like Epsom or Box calf are used for the Sellier to maintain its structure. You typically won't find a Sellier in a very soft leather or a Retourne in a very rigid one.

Which Kelly holds its value better?

Both styles hold their value exceptionally well and are considered top-tier investment pieces. The specific desirability can fluctuate with market trends, but the Sellier is often regarded as the ultimate classic, which can give it a stable, high resale value.

How do I care for my Kelly bag?

Regardless of style, always store your Kelly in its dust bag with stuffing inside to help it maintain its shape. Be mindful of moisture and direct sunlight. For the Sellier, be careful not to knock the sharp corners, and for the Retourne, regular stuffing is key to preventing excessive sagging over time.

Is one style harder to find than the other?

Availability for any Hermès Kelly is extremely limited. Which style is harder to find often depends on a boutique's specific stock, seasonal demand, and production cycles. Neither can be considered easy to purchase directly from the brand.